Italiano
Cozzo means Dolcetto
The Mario Cozzo estate has been producing Dolcetto for almost two centuries in Dogliani, one of the most suited areas for that varietal, which in 2001 received a DOCG classification.
In order to compile the 2019 edition of our Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine, we needed to travel the country in the hope of finding some lesser-known but worthy producers who may have slipped through the net in earlier editions and who should be followed also in view of future editions. This year we got lucky and can suggest a family of Dolcetto producers who we think deserves attention.
First a little background: The Cozzo family has been making Dolcetto for almost two centuries, the fifth generation is currently in charge, and are probably the oldest producers in the area. They have 16 hectares of vineyards, 12 of which they own while four are leased. They are situated at an altitude of just under 500m above sea level and are for the most part Dolcetto (70%), although they also cultivate Nebbiolo and Freisa.
The estate is basically composed of two farms: Cascina Lasagna and Cascina Braida. The estate is run by one brother, one sister and an offspring from each branch of the family. We met Gian Luca de Maria, the son of the sister, who at the estate is for the most part involved in the winemaking side.
All the vineyards are traditionally Guyot-trained with a density common for when they were planted and the vines in the cru Pregliasco have not been grafted. This vineyard was renovated fairly recently using existing plants while another cru, Dusin, is 50 years old.
In our first visit we focused on their Dolcetto Dogliani and the three wines made from it: Madonna delle Grazie, Dusin and Pregliasco. The latter was the subject of an interesting vertical tasting starting with vintage 2010 (which at the time had a different classification) and ending with 2015. Vintage 2014 is missing because the wine was not made that year.
Dolcetto Madonna delle Grazie is made with grapes from four different vineyards and macerates on the skins for 5-6 days and then matures in steel and glass-lined cement vats for 4-5 months. This produces a fresher, easier to understand and ready to drink Dolcetto. Both Dolcetto Dusin and Pregliasco are made only with the grapes of the vineyards of the same name and they macerate on the skins for some 12 days and mature in glass-lined cement vats, 18 months for Dusin and 24 for Pregliasco. Gian Luca is a fanatical supporter of glass-lined cement vats which he believes are the best to keep any potential problems under control as they arise. From what we tasted he is not wrong.
Annual production is 22,000 bottles for Madonna delle Grazie, 6,000 for Dusin and only 2,400 of Pregliasco. Retail Madonna delle Grazie costs 9 euros, Dusin 11 euros and Pregliasco 16 euros: truly excellent prices.
