Lesser-known Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Here are four lesser-known Verdicchio from producers normally associated with other wines but who also excel with this prince of Marche varietals.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is often able to shine even in a difficult year and as was the case with 2017. It was difficult due to a never-ending summer with African temperatures and limited temperature variations between day and night.

The 2017 Verdicchio are a little short on juice and vitality (similar to the 2003 and 2011 although 2017 seems better than both) but there is no lack of freshness, which in Jesi is more from the salinity than the acidity, nor body.

The aromas tend to be unexpectedly vegetal (anise and fennel), whereas normally in sunny years the bouquet, when young, has floral notes of linden and fruity ones of apricot, while the bitter sensation that usually distinguishes the finish, not always appealing to wine lovers, here is limited.

However, no Verdicchio, or almost none, was penalized in 2017 by the excessive heat, cooked fruit or mouthfeels with no tension not the classic limitations white wines can suffer from excessive pre-harvest heat.

Overall, 2017 was a good year, two and a half or maybe even three stars, but far from the great vintages 2015, 2013 and 2010.

Today we look at four Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi that during the tastings for the next edition of our Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine were not on the top tier (with the important exception of the splendid Salmagina from Zaccagnini) nor did they qualify for being a new entry. They are simply some excellent wines that for some reason or another are not the first that come to mind among Verdicchio lovers.

Enjoy and given their prices, always a positive factor with this wine, think about buying some.

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