Italiano
My Bordeaux: A century ago
We come to the end of our incredible reportage on Bordeaux and do so by presenting four, absolutely extraordinary wines that are some 100 years old.
This last installment is a paean to the eternity of Bordeaux wines. An eternity that must be ensured by great respect when it comes to conservation, which I think should be maniacal, in order to guarantee unfathomable emotions.
When I was an adolescent I tasted dozens of Premier Cru from the end of the 19th century and I can vividly remember Margaux 1893 and 1881, Lafite 1883 and 1898, Latour 1906 and 1870 (the oldest unfortified red wine ever tasted). These were explosions of emotions, with relatively pale colors compared to those of today but with pulsating and pungent mouthfeels. Here I will only describe my more recent tastings, with digital snapshots of wines offering incredible and extraordinary moments more than any other wine.
Pauillac Premier Grand Cru Classé 1929 Château Latour
99/100 - € 3500
One of the best wines I’ve ever tasted. I prefer 1929 over more expensive (and celebrated) 1928 because, having tasted them within a short time span, it gave me a greater sense of balance and continuing evolution. The color is simply unreal, an intense garnet with evident but not chromatically compromising orange hues. The bouquet has an utterly astounding intensity, with a wild mint background and distinct notes of coffee, cacao and tobacco to then close with a note of freshly ground coffee and mace. The mouthfeel has unexpected energy, one in line with high expectations but not that surprising.
Pauillac Premier Cru Classé 1919 Château Lafite Rothschild
98/100 – circa € 3000
Incredible integrity. A typical mistake in classification given that, while the vintage was not that great, having tasted over 20 bottles, only a couple disappointing due to cork problems, it is proving to be a splendid year. The level of the wine was incredible for a perfect cork (3cm below the cork) and it has an extraordinary color, a relatively bold red without concessions, aside from an insignificant orange edge. The bouquet has enchanting aromas of pink pepper, garigue. Coffee grounds and sweet tobacco. The mouthfeel is a caress for taste buds, precious velvet. Decidedly a wine for meditation, profound meditation.
Pauillac Premier Grand Cru Classé 1918 Château Latour
95/100 - € 2500
Elegant and refined with a very clear red color by now leaning towards garnet with distinct orange hues. The aromas are decadent yet fascinating with notes of leaves and cut flowers, with delicate scents of porcini mushroom and fresh cardoon on the side, all enriched by lovely notes of spice and bergamot. The mouthfeel is still untamed, restless and has an amazing vitality.
Pessac Leognan Premier Grand Cru Classé 1918 Château Haut Brion
100/100 - € 3000
One of the best and most impressive wines I have ever tasted of any kind. Fortunately, I have tasted it often and have always enjoyed it totally. The corks were exceptionally good and hermetic and allowed this incredible to age serenely. The garnet color is still intense and has only a few orange reflections. The bouquet is pyrotechnic with scents of pipe tobacco (Clan) while with breathing come those of shag Toscani cigar tobacco. These are followed by infinite scents of underbrush, fine mushrooms, bark and fallen autumn leaves. The note of tar and strong spice, freshly ground juniper, is evident as is the saline note in the mouth with its unreal tension, silky texture and timeless austerity.
