Italiano
My Bordeaux: the 1980s
With the wines of the 1908s things begin to get serious: at around 40 years of age, these wines achieve a complexity that up until now was only theoretical.
Vines in Bordeaux are, for the most part, cultivated on soft slopes, in a gravelly, poor and significantly acidic soil that forces the plant to dig its roots deep into the ground, which is one of the secrets of the incredible “minerality” (apologies to Mastro Daniele for the term) of these red wines.
The soils in Bordeaux, on both banks of the Garonne River, are extremely diverse. On the left Rive Gauche it is gravelly, with different densities, formed by the erosion of the Pyrenees by the river over thousands of years. The gravel and pebbles play a fundamental role for the evolution of the vines, providing them at night with the warmth they have accumulated during the day. On the right Rive Droite, on the other hand, the subsoil is composed of clay, sand and, in part, chalk that allows for the perfect drainage of rainwater to much lower levels.
With the wines of the 1980s things begin to get serious: at around 40 years of age, these wines benefit from almost seraphic bottle aging, transforming it only partially and ushering in typical notes of hide and leather, some distinct spice and a pronounced balsamic sensation. While far from reaching their apex, in the great years they allow you to enjoy without reservation a complexity that up until now was only theoretical.
The intact colors are amazing, thanks to the polyphenolic properties of the grapes in the blend, totally unique, making them a chromatic phenomenon for scientific study and one of the reasons for the success of these wines over the centuries (for which the color is a measuring stick for the wine itself).
Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1988 Château Cheval Blanc
96/100 - 500 Euros
The first garnet hues appear like wonderful expression lines. The bouquet unfolds with well-known bottle-aging notes of hide, humus and bark with an extraordinary scent of spice. The soft and caressing mouthfeel is upheld by lively acidity and maintains an exceptional drinkability.
Pessac Leognan Premier Grand Cru Classé 1988 Château Haut Brion
96/100 - 500 Euros
A splendid and intense ruby color and the nose unleashes notes of bitter root, cinchona, pipe tobacco and black truffle with saline sensations and those of cardamom. The mouthfeel is solemn, wrapping and saline with notes of flint and quartzite in the finish. Never tame and with a texture that is still energetic.
Pauillac Premier Grand Cru Classé 1988 Château Latour
97/100 - 600 Euros
A distinct yet transparent red color that is not particularly concentrated. The bouquet is of wet bark, flint, wilted flowers and blueberry jam that shifts towards balsamic and spice notes all wrapped in a balsamic framework. The mouthfeel is still youthful, with thick yet partially rounded tannins, taut and has great boldness and character.
Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classé 1986 Château Margaux
97/100 - 700 Euros
The color has still not defined itself but is a full ruby with an excellent consistency. The attack of the aroma is extraordinarily sweet, with sensations of milk chocolate and suffused spice and still has hints of red-fruit jam. The mouthfeel is an authentic drape of very fine silk, elegant yet full of vigor. One of the most elegant wines tasted.
Pomerol 1985 Château Petrus
97+/100 – 2.500 Euros
A Petrus you would not expect with a ruby-red color that is not that dense yet luminous, odd for a Merlot. An incredible and almost sumptuous aroma, a broad spectrum that ranges from underbrush mushrooms to Mediterranean pine bark, chanterelle to graphite. The mouthfeel has an extraordinary elegance, whispered more than shouted, and is twinkly and fascinating. Those expecting an Italian style density and boldness will remain stunned. A unique interpretation of a Merlot.
Pauillac Premier Grand Cru Classé 1985 Château Lafite Rotschild
97/100 - 850 Euros
Impressive just to look at with its intense and bright ruby color and hints of garnet on the edge. The aroma is uncompromising with its still exuberant fruit that is amazing after 35 years. With breathing, the bouquet is embellished with notes of citrus and green peppercorn, almost like a great Montrachet. An incredible wine appreciated by all present.
