Latour: Consistency without immobility (2)

A few more observations and then we’ll get to the tastings: Pauillac 2015 (the estate’s third wine), Forts de Latour 2015 (the second wine) and Grand Vin 1988.

Lisa, in her role as head of hospitality and with her degree in enology, explained that “Since the Asian market exploded we have had a lot of problems with wine fraud, which we are combating with labels that cannot be counterfeited. Another problem with Asia is convincing consumers there that each wine has its own pace and much time has to pass to appreciate our Grand Vin. This is why we only export to Asia bottles that have already aged the minimum time necessary”.

Lisa’s words are in no way fanatical nor presumptuous. Above all she does not give the impression that they have reached perfection. The wines may be consistent but they are in no way immobile.

“Some vintages from the 1990s when you taste them now have slightly more Brett than what our standards are and the estate’s enologists are working to resolve this. However, eliminating it all together does not seem like the solution for us”.

“At what moment do you decided what the blend will be for the Grand Vin?”

“Decisions are made constantly, glass in hand with repeated tastings, and it takes a long time to overcome any doubts and make a decision. Today (January 11, ed.note) we still do not what will be the blend for our Grand Vin 2017”.

My visit ended in the tasting room where Lisa let me sample a Pauillac 2015, the estate’s third wine that is made with grapes from young vines and with a greater amount of Merlot in the blend; a Forts de Latour 2015, the estate’s second wine that in blind tastings rivals the area’s great wines: and a Grand Vin 1988.

“What does it feel like to have the whole world consider you a model?”.

Lisa is almost taken aback, perhaps surprised. “Our responsibility is greater than our pride. More than that, however, we are sorry to be considered a model because every terroir is different and copying makes no sense”.

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