Italiano
The feat of Upper Piedmont
The acquisition of the Nervi estate by Roberto Conterno has confirmed what people have been saying for some time: Upper Piedmont (Alta Piemonte) has found its path towards the production of excellent wines.
Piedmont has recently become “Upper” or Higher. We had just gotten used to saying Upper Langhe (although it would be nicer to say the Other Langhe), which with its quality bubbly, made with an assortment of varietals (including Nebbiolo), has had a great success with the pubic and the market, something that is also happening with their white and classy still wines. And already we have another “Highness”.
Upper Piedmont refers to the province of Novara that has a number of historic appellations which are having a revival thanks to the latest generation of producers that is turning out excellent quality at affordable prices. While appellations like Ghemme and Gattinara are well-known, Boca, Lessona, Bramaterra and Fara are wines not often referred to by wine lovers.
It may because of the succession of hot years, but the excessive edginess that these wines suffered from up until a decade or so ago has been transformed into a flavorful verticality with tannins that, while always evident, have become more polished. An increased awareness, along with greater attention to methods used in the vineyards and winery have resulted in a better definition of the territory.
This is important because the area has very different subzones and now that they are more defined they can be divided into two groups: the terroir of fire Boca, created by the explosion of a mega volcano that spawned an important and historic rural wealth with the soil rich in heavy substances, for the most part magnesium which gives a unique tonality to the soil and a color spectrum from pink to purple. Then there is the terroir of water Ghemme, where the glaciers did not leave those classic morainal notes but the pressure from them raised the edges around them creating ‘banks’ composed of a very crumbly and sandy tuff soil.
The distinct differences were well known already at the time of Unification of Italy when Cavour praised the quality of the wines, especially their elegance. Unfortunately, the vineyard area in Upper Piedmont is limited, not even 300 hectares, due to the exodus from rural life that began in the 1960s. Nevertheless, on the steep hillsides you can still see the old terraces where the vineyards are slowly being brought back to life where possible.
The acquisition of nearly the entire Nervi estate by a leading producer like Giacomo Conterno of Monforte was an interesting decision that confirmed the interest the great Langhe winemakers have in the potential of this area.
The following are reviews of wines I have had the occasion to taste and that particularly impressed me. Unfortunately, some historic brands were missing from the Taste Alto Piemonte event that was brilliantly organized at the Novara castle by the producers’ association.
As you can see, these wines have excellent ratings, all around 90/100:
Rovellotti, Ghemme Chioso dei Pomi 2012
Cantina Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore Prunent 2015
Le Pianelle, Bramaterra 2014
Cassina Pietro, Lessona Tanzo 2011
Podere Garona, Boca 2012
