Italiano
Sicily: a continent to discover
Sicilia en Primeur, organized by Assovini , is one of the most important wine events in Italy. It is an absolute must for those responsible for compiling wine guides, those who love wine and those who write about it in some fashion.
DoctorWine belongs to all three categories but unfortunately regulations allow only one member of our staff to participate in the tastings. Over 50 producers of Assovini’s 79 members were at the latest edition with some 400 wines offered and so it was impossible to taste them all in one day.
The event was held in a super-technological greenhouse at the Radicepura Gardens in Giarre where the temperature, humidity and, rumor has it, oxygen and carbon dioxide were kept under control. The result was the best tasting I have ever taken part in for both the setting and the service and I practically had a personal sommelier all to myself who was very skilled and informed on the wines. The wines that impressed me can be found in this article as well as our Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine 2018.
The tastings were preceded by a wonderful two-day tour of wineries in southeast Sicily between Noto and Vittoria . This is a very interesting zone that produces wines with an excellent quality/price ratio as well as top quality products made from both native and international varietals. Among the latter I would like to make special mention of Syrah , a grape of uncertain origin that here has adapted excellently. Another fantastic grape is Frappato which together with Nero d’Avola is used to create Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which has reached new heights thanks to young and dynamic producer Arianna Occhipinti .
The producers here are varied and range from the craft wineries of citrus producers to Sicilia dependances of leading Tuscan realities like Mattei’s Zisola or Setteponti’s Feudo Maccari , as well as the enterprises of intellectual aristocrats who have found their connection with Nature in the vineyard. Here, as in other parts of Sicily, there has been a surg in of top quality and very characteristic white wines made from Grillo and Catarratto grapes.
Two final considerations: the first is that organic winemaking is a consolidated practice in Sicily which has become the Italia region with the highest percentage of organic wine estates in Italy. The second is that the zone of Etna is totally dominating expansion in the region with wines that are surely to the advantage of the consumer. Thus be careful not to lump all Sicilian wines together.
Last but not least a final observation regarding Nero d’Avola , Sicily’s best-known red wine grape. Although this varietal can produce some excellent wines, the majority are quite heavy and even boring, even if they may be well-made. The best are from vineyards set on higher ground where grapes ripen slow and late and while the grapes risk falling victim to October rains, they make excellent wine.
