Etna: the volcano will turn white

When Riccardo Viscardi predicted five years ago that white wines were Etna’s future, everyone thought he was crazy. The tastings during the recent Le Contrade dell’Etna event have shown he was right.

Le Contrade dell’Etna has always been a wonderful event. The brainchild of the late Andrea Franchetti has allowed many people to get to know the volcano and its wines, making it a reference point for Sicily the world over. Everything went smoothly for the post-pandemic edition, the first since the death of its founder.

The event saw many participating wineries (90) and four seminars conducted brilliantly by Federico Latteri, two on two different vintages of Etna Rosso, one dedicated to Etna whites and one to Etna rosé. There was also a wonderful conference given by Professor Attilio Scienza on Etna’s soils, exposures and the genesis of its vineyards. In other words, a lot of substance and no small talk!

All these events inevitably led to certain conclusions, some positive and others negative. The biggest disappointment were the Etna Rosso wines. Both during the seminar on vintage 2019 and the tastings I was repeatedly disappointed by wines that were blatantly defective, had over-exposed tannins, were too volatile and suffered from excessive maturation. Fortunately, there were also the wines from the “really good” producers along with those from the “only good” ones. The problem would appear to be that the excessively fast growth of the area has led to people bottling their wines without having the either an adequate structure or sufficient experience to tackle the Nerello varietal, both the Mascalese and Cappuccio varieties, which is already a difficult grape to deal with if you don’t know it.

Strangely enough, the seminar on vintage 2017 went better despite it being a complicated year, but then again there were many wines offered from the “really good” producers. This vintage proved the point that more than the estate or the exposure, it is the winemaker who makes the difference. The recent creation of the Consorzio dei Vini dell’Etna producers’ association has its work cut out for it to ensure that it does not become too big an “umbrella” to the detriment of the quality of the wines. All things considered, it’s best to trust established producers rather than venture into the unknown.

The best news was in regard to Etna’s white wines, which have distinct and unique personalities. They represented a return to the great tradition established by Benanti with the legendary 1990s vintages of Pietramarina, the first “real” reference point of the volcano’s white wine potential.

The vineyards are often young but to make a good white you need science, experience and a winery worthy of its name. Thus the excellent whites often come from the “only good” and “really good” producers and here what also makes a difference are the altitudes, exposures and estates, with the new Milo appellation making great strides. I was pleased to see how the volcano has given distinct and unique traits to the wines made from non-native grape varieties seeing how when I predicted five years ago that Etna was suited for producing excellent white wines people thought I was crazy.

The following are six white Etna wines that impressed me during the event.

Tenuta di Fessina
Etna Bianco A’Puddara 2019 

96/100 - € 40 

Made from Carricante grapes. Matured in large barrels for 12 months. A straw-yellow color with green reflections. A symphonic aroma with notes of citrus and rose, wild mint, white flowers, some wild fennel and chalk. The mouthfeel is lively yet compact with clear saline sensations nicely integrated into a harmonious and elegant flavor that has great personality. The finish is outstanding.

Aìtala 
Etna Bianco Martinella 2018 

95/100 - € 18

A blend of 70% Carricante with additions of Catarratto and Minnella. Matured in stainless steel for 12 months. A pale straw-yellow color with green reflections. A clear and intense bouquet with scents of yellow flowers and citrus, followed by slightly green and fresh notes. The mouthfeel is sharp, with sensations of chalk and salt, and progressive with a consistent and very persistent finish. Great elegance.

Cantine di Nessuno 
Etna Bianco Milice 2019 

94/100 - € 48

Made from Carricante grapes and matured for seven months on the lees in wood. A bright, straw-yellow color and intense aroma of wild fennel and sage followed by scents of citrus and a hint of tangerine. The mouthfeel is thick and sunny, saline, with a lovely freshness and a relaxed and juicy progression. The finish is balanced and persistent with a fine smokiness to it.

Generazione Alessandro
Etna Bianco Trainara 2019 

93/100 - € 20

Carricante with a little Catarratto. Matured on the lees in stainless steel for several months. A pale, straw color. An intense bouquet with notes of sage, loquat, chalk and yellow flowers. The mouthfeel is thick and almost chili spicy, saline and sharp while the progression is broad as is the very flavorful and persistent finish.
 

Quantico
Etna Bianco Quantico 2019 

93/100 - € 20 

Carricante with some Catarratto and Minnella. Matured on the lees for several months in stainless steel. A pale straw-yellow color with green reflections. The aroma has notes of gooseberry, citrus and a hint of licorice. The mouthfeel is thick and progressive, very saline, elegant and intense with a balanced and persistent finish.
 

Cusumano
Etna Bianco Alta Mora 2019 

92/100 - € 18

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