Italiano
Brunello 2017 Preview: Producers beat the weather
Together with Brunello di Montalcino 2017, the producers’ Consorzio offered tastings of vintage 2017 estate selection and 2016 Riserva.
To mark the 30th edition of its Benvenuto Brunello preview, the producers’ Consorzio carried out a kind of revolution. Montalcino, in fact, broke ranks with the traditional Tuscan previews and even if this had been in the air for some time now, the Covid pandemic made it more plausible. What they did was to bring out their new vintages around 40 days ahead of the period determined by norms regulating other Tuscan wines reaching the market. This year they presented vintage 2016 Riserva and vintage Brunello 2017. The move made the event an authentic “preview” and allowed wine lovers and buyers to have information ahead of time about their favorite producers from sources of various nationalities.
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I, personally, welcomed this initiative that lifted the hegemony of the Anglo-Saxon press, actually only two publications, in regard to previews. We at DoctorWine have for the past few years tried to break this situation by getting a jump on preview tastings and so perhaps we played a small role in this change.
The third novelty were the dinners offered onsite at estates for guests invited by the producers’ association. Aside from the host estate, these dinners offered the wines of five other producers, thus giving the impression of true friendship and unity among producers. The only blemish was the absence of certain wineries, even some important ones, which were usually present at these events. A shame.
Three types of Brunello were presented: vintage 2017, 2017 estate selection and 2016 Riserva. All that could be said has been said about 2016: one of the all-time best vintages. Vintage 2017, on the other hand, was definitely a difficult year from an agronomic point of view, with extreme heat and drought creating an arduous challenge for producers.
The wines presented were the best of the year that produced them, evidence of the ability of estates to manage extreme conditions. For sure, the differences between estates were more evident underscoring how technology in the winery, especially in regard to grape treatment and selection, played a fundamental role in managing aromas and tannins, which under those extreme climatic conditions create problems that are difficult to resolve.
The differences between the various districts of Montalcino were more evident than usual and the great differences were determined by the approach and skill of each producer in managing the harvest and fermentation.
I would define Brunello 2017 as a gastronomic wine, one to pair with food rather than meditate upon. The best versions were slightly tannic but the alcohol content gave them a rotundity without drying out the aftertaste. This is a vintage that will not age long but will be pleasing and enjoyable in its first years and for the next decade.
The following are the wines that impressed me the most during the November tastings with priority given to the novelties, which are always found in Montalcino.
Brunello di Montalcino 2017
- Uccelliera
95/100 - € 75
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in large and medium-sized barrels for over 24 months. A classic ruby color. Very intact scents of red and ripe dark fruit, but without any warm notes, with an intense and distinct bouquet and hint of red salt typical for the area. The compact mouthfeel has settled and integrated tannins, with a balanced and constant progression and an excellent finish.
- Pietra
95/100 - € 45
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in classic barrels for 24 months. A bright and classic ruby color. An intense bouquet of marasca and black cherry, some engaging hints of golden spice and all intense and clean. The mouthfeel is nicely tannic thanks to balanced tannins and a flavorful, broad and nicely composed fruity progression and an elegant and persistent aftertaste.
- Agostina Pieri
93/100 - € 46
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in barrels of various sizes for 24 months. An intense and dark ruby color. The bouquet has lovely notes of mulberry, ripe blackberry and black cherry, with a light, smoky hint. The mouthfeel is compact and juicy with a broad, flavorful and slightly warm progression, typical of the area. The finish is intense.
- Giodo - 93/100
- Cava d’onice - 93/100
- Fossacolle - 92/100
- Tornesi - 92/100
- Palazzo - 92/100
- La Fuga - 92/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2017 Selezioni
- Canalicchio di Sopra, La Casaccia
97/100 - € 160
Made from Brunello grapes, matured for at least 24 months in 30hl barrels. A classic ruby color. A clear and intense bouquet with black cherry and blackberry notes and a light smokiness that ushers in a freshness from scents of medicinal herbs. The mouthfeel is thick and progressive, nervous with youthful yet fully integrated tannins. The long and somber aftertaste is excellent. The northern district of Montalcino expresses its characteristics even in very hot years but in this case there was a twist: rain in mid-September.
- Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova
97/100 - € 100
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in barriques and 900l barrels for 24 months. A dark yet bright color. An intriguing bouquet with notes of ripe cherry, a balanced smokiness and medicinal scents that lighten and enhance the aromas. The mouthfeel is broad, juicy and very balanced with youthful yet integrated tannins that make the progression elegant with warm notes in the aftertaste along with a hint of salt that makes it agile. A wine that continues to amaze, becoming ever more somber.
- La Magia, Ciliegio
96/100 - € 125
Made from Brunello grapes, matured for 24 months in 900l barrels. An intense, classic ruby color. The bouquet is very fresh with smoky notes and those of yellow spice that intermingle and bring out nice and balanced scents of red, cherry fruit, yellow fruit and strawberry tree. The winning mouthfeel has excellent, youthful tannins that are well inserted into an elegant progression with a very persistent finish.
- Tassi. Colombaiolo - 96/100
- Siro Pacenti, V.V - 96/100
- Banfi, Vigna Marrucheto - 95/100
- Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Vigna Pianrosso - 95/100
- Corte Pavone, Campo Marzio - 95/100
- Caparzo, La Casa - 94/100
- La Rasina, Piersante - 94/100
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 e altri “late release”
- Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto
100/100 - € 300
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in 900l barrels for 24 months. A very intense and intact ruby color. The intriguing bouquet is very classic with red fruit, mostly cherry, and a touch of other dark fruits and a balsamic salinity of eucalyptus that expands the aromatic spectrum. The mouthfeel is compact yet mellow without any excesses but with great balances and refined tannins. The finish is anthological, incredibly distinct and destined to get better over the years.
The vineyards are in the northern zone where the soil is red yet the heart of this wine is warm and its class immense.
- Siro Pacenti, Riserva PS
99/100 - € 100
Made from Brunello grapes, matured in barriques for at least 30 months. A compact and very bright ruby color. The bouquet has intense red fruit, ripe yet fresh blackberry, strawberry tree notes and a hint of fresh and intriguing balsamic spice together with warmer and more southern spice. The mouthfeel is still young and nervous with young and refined tannins that need some time to evolve. The elegant progression is consistent with the two souls that compose this wine and the finish is rigorous and very austere, which always fascinates.
- Fuligni, Riserva
99/100 - € 135
Made from Brunello grapes, matured for 36 months in barrels between 25 and 35hl. A classic, compact and bright ruby color. The bouquet has scents of red fruit, yellow spice and hints of peach, which make it very classic and broad but without any of the old shortcomings. The mouthfeel is incredibly elegant with its refined tannins and lovely freshness united with a never-before achieved creaminess. The finish is sumptuous and very long.
The best Brunello this winery has ever produced.
- Biondi Santi, Riserva 2015 - 98/100
- Canalicchio di Sopra, Riserva - 97/100
- Castello Romitorio, Riserva - 97/100
- Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Riserva S. Caterina d’Oro - 97/100
- Le Chiuse. Riserva 2012 - 97/100
- Pietroso. Riserva - 97/100
- Renieri. Riserva - 97/100
- San Lorenzo. Riserva - 97/100
- Banfi, Riserva Poggio all'Oro - 97/100
- Capanna, Riserva - 96/100
- Col d’Orcia, Poggio al Vento 2015 - 96/100
- Corte Pavone, Anemone al Sole Riserva - 96/100
- Poggio di Sotto, Riserva - 96/100
