Madame Martis 2008-2000

An opportunity to evaluate in a serious way the evolution of a Trentodoc, which has always been a cut above, from the excellent Maso Martis estate.
I have been lucky to have been able to sample this Trentodoc since it came out. From the first tasting it was clear that Madame Martis would become a star. There are few bubblies on my personal list of favorite wines and this one is up towards the top. We would like to thank Roberta and her lovely family for offering the opportunity for this remarkable vertical tasting.
This was the second historic tasting that the Maso Martis estate organized in 2019 and it took place during the Merano Wine Festival, while the first was staged at Vinitaly and dealt with odd years. Unfortunately, I did not attend the Vinitaly tasting because I was “working” (and yes, Vinitaly is work).
The Maso Martis estate produces Madame Martis using the Traditional Method from its own best grapes, uniting the elegance of Pinot Noir with the fragrance of Chardonnay and the softness of Pinot Meunier. The grapes are organically cultivated east of Trento in Martignano, on a hill east at an altitude of 450m above sea level and at the feet of Monte Calisio. The soil here is limy, chalky, rich in Trentino red rock gravel.
The blend is 70% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier and it matures in barriques until it is bottled after which it sits on the lees for an average of over nine years.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2008
92/100 - € 75
This was an important year for the bubbly base wines in Trento. The winter was mild, germination was regular, spring and summer were balanced in regard to rainfall and temperature, while August was hot and the pre-harvest period benefitted from sharp temperatures variations.
Disgorged in February 2018. The aroma has notes of honey and cotton candy, toasted bread and distance scents typical to Pinot Noir which give structure and persistence to the bouquet. The mouthfeel is citrusy with a distinct acidity, a broad structure and soft notes in the aftertaste. Young, I’d say immature, but with infinite potential.
Bottles produced: 1,000.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2008 Magnum
96/100 - € 230
Disgorged in February 2019. In full, precise, clean and wrapping maturity. The immense variety in the complex aroma matches that of the unique flavor. Candied citron and other citrus sensations dominate the aroma that also has notes of yellow fruit and custard. The mouthfeel has a very sweet acidity and is extraordinarily consistent and wrapping, reaching a peak in the saline and iodine finish.
Magnums produced: 300.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2006
93/100 - € 95
This was a classic year in Trentino with a severe and nervous winter, a cool spring and hot summer.
Disgorged in March 2016. This has less sweet intensity but more notes related to its long period on the lees. The aroma has notes of brioche and ripe fruit and the intense acidity merges well with the winy structure. The finish has an unexpected broadness and gives this wine a leg up with very persistent fruit and saline sensations. A prime example of the power of Madame Martis.
Bottles produced: 1,000.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2004
89/100 - € 95
The season began cold and wet while spring became normal and the summer had both hot days and distinct diurnal temperature variations. The result was an excellent vintage.
Disgorged in August 2013. The aroma initially has an oxidized note but becomes refined with scents of baked goods and those that recall toasted almonds and quince apple preserves. The mouthfeel has two sides: initially it is fat and broad to then become monotonous and close dry.
Bottles produced: 1,000.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2002
97/100 – Not available on the market
A mild winter and wet spring, while the summer was not too hot and had sufficient rain to ensure the health of the grapes.
Disgorged in August 2011. The aroma is closed at the start but after a few minutes emerge notes of baked goods, Chantilly cream and white flowers, like jasmine, making it more intense and broad as well as iodized and saline. The complexity of this bubbly is found in the mouthfeel with all the ripe fruit from the Pinot Noir and sensations of evolution from the Chardonnay. The aromatic persistence is long and taut. Pleasure beyond the persistence.
Bottles produced: 500.
Trentodoc Madame Martis Brut Riserva 2000
90/100 – Not available on the market
An excellent vintage due to the exceptional weather that saw regular rainfall in the spring and a hot summer without extreme temperatures that produced perfectly healthy grapes.
Disgorged in April 2019. The aroma has notes of dried fruit, with intense ones of apricot, along with those of hay and white flowers. The mouthfeel has a little less intensity that has a distinct acidity that comes out on top of the grapey and fruity notes. The finish has a nice floral persistence and little fruit.
Bottles produced: 500 bottles.