Champagnes that ‘speak’ the sea

A conversation between father and son in a winery in Verzy, a small Grand Cru village in the northern part of Montagne d Reims. Vincent: “In Champagne, only 1.5% of production is organic or biodynamic because the climatic conditions in general are very difficult, especially for those of us who are more to the north”. Adrien, his young son who has just earned a degree in enology: “That’s not true, it is possible and, in fact, I have already begun to use biodynamic preparations with excellent results”. A stern glance from the father who whispers: “Fine, but take it slow, caution is needed”.

Similar conversations are not new in France but in Champagne they stand out and signal a generational divide that will have an uncertain but definitely interesting outcome. The estate in this case was founded in 1983 and has five hectares of vineyards that produce just over 20,000 bottles, with the rest of the grapes sold to the leading Maisons. Their style strives for finesse and freshness with a character that is decidedly linear and saline. In an area dominated by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay plays a very important role. Adrien’s involvement in the estate has accelerated, by reducing the dosage, the quest for an even more tapered verticality.

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