Italiano
Ayala and a vision of a Blanc de Blancs
Le Blanc de Blancs 2013 is proving to be a very pleasing Champagnes with a recognizable personality, in line with the identity the Maison is imposing.
Among there Maisons in Champagne undergoing major changes is undoubtedly Ayala, following a project that began after it entered the Bollinger group. Over the past ten years, not only has it expanded significantly but it has also redefined its own identity, boosted in Italy by the great work done by Meregalli. Today, Ayala is a very interesting reality because it has repositioned itself in a recognizable way thanks to achieving ambitious quality goals through the dedication of an enological team headed by the determined and talented Chef de caves Caroline Latrive, along with the dynamic vision of GM Hadrien Mouflard who was able to pump in new life with the backing of Bollinger.
Founded in 1860 by Edmond de Ayala, the son of Colombia’s consul general in Paris and the only Spanish head of a great Maison, the Maison was from the beginning very linked to the terroir of Aÿ. Although Edmond played a key role in Champagne, beginning in 1862 when he became one of the founding members of Syndicat des Grandes Marques, Maison Ayala had its ups and downs up until it was acquired by Bollinger, which saw its “neighbor” as a kind of alter ego. This because Ayala has become the white pearl of Aÿ, firmly engaged with Chardonnay and its line of wines has been perfected with the arrival of Caroline Latrive in 2011, who began to vinify the wines more precisely by separating vineyard parcels and villages.
The top of the line remains the cuvée de prestige Perle d’Ayala made with grapes from the Grand Cru villages of Oger, Avise, Chouilly and Aÿ. However, the project the Maison is most focused on is the vintage Le Blancs de Blancs, made with grapes from the best Chardonnay harvests in Côte des Blancs. It began with the 2005 harvest and in all only eight vintages have been made: 2005, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2012 and now 2013, which we preview here. Caroline Latrive has changed the composition of Le Blanc des Blancs according to the balance she strikes to obtain a fresh harmony that is, at the same time, gourmand, taking into account the individual expressions of each village each harvest.
This 2013, the grapes for which were picked at the beginning of October before a wave of bad weather, is a blend that is, as always, based on the Chardonnay from the Grand Cru villages of Côte des Blancs (14% with the tension from Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, 23% with the silky complexity of Chouilly and 25% with the floral salinity of Cramant) to which, as opposed to the 2012, has been added 25% of Cuis fruitiness and 13% the chalky personality of Vertus. This is a very pleasing Champagne with a recognizable personality and is in line the decision to change the wine’s name, beginning with vintage 2002, and add the article “Le” before Blanc des Bancs. This was a statement of identity and decidedly promising.
Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs 2013
92/100 - € 65
Made only with Chardonnay from six Grand and Premier Cru villages in Côte des Blancs ((Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Cramant, Cuis and Vertus). Made in stainless steel and matured on the lees for six years with a final dosage of 6g/l. A delicate yet at the same time pleasingly fresh bouquet with the crispness and definition of fruit: tropical citrus with yuzu and grapefruit, tangerine and ginger, elder and linden flowers. The mouthfeel is bracing and lively with a nice sapidity giving sharp precision to the flavor that is dominated by freshness, undoubtedly citrusy, together with a hint of honey and fresh almond in the punctual and joyous finish that is both lean and soft.
