Italiano
Selvagrossa, a Colli Pesaresi potpourri
Alessandro and Alberto Taddei, with the help of enologist Emiliano Falsino, have brought wine production into focus at their Selvagrossa estate.
While it is undoubtedly complicated to describe winemaking regions like the Lange and Montalcino, the same can be said for other areas. A case in point is Colli Pesaresi, situated in the northern part of the Marche region near the border with Romagna, which is a microcosm of experimentation in continual evolution.
The few wine lovers acquainted with this area associate it with Pinot Noir, which here has become a “native” varietal having arrived in the 18th century with Napoleon’s troops. This grape has produced both good results (Carlini) and excellent ones (Fattoria Mancini) and while these reds may not age 50 years, they do not lack the chiaroscuro qualities this varietal can give. Sangiovese is also cultivated in the area, which produces some interesting wines with an earthy profile (although at present not on the level of those made in Romagna), as well as Albanella, a Trebbiano Bianco biotype that makes a nice white wine.
Selvagrossa is an estate in this evolving area and is located in Pesaro In recent years it has brought its production into focus, thanks to the expertise of Tuscan enologist Emliano Falsini.
The estate is named Selvagrozza (Big Forest) because at the beginning of the 20th century the area was covered by a thick forest. After two world wars (the estate was on the WWII Gothic Line of German defense) the forest was almost totally cut down to provide wood to rebuild destroyed homes and export wood.
The estate was founded in 2002 by Alessandro and Alberto Taddei. Having worked at length at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Alberto was able to taste and appreciate the world’s greatest wines and this allowed him, together with his brother Alessandro, to create a perfectly focused line of wines. The next step was to work on each wine’s personality, as was the case with Poveriano, a wine made from Cabernet Franc that appears to have the potential of becoming something special.
Poveriano Marche Rosso 2016
90/100 - € 30
Made from Cabernet Franc and matured for 14 months in new barriques. An opaque ruby color and an aroma of sweet chili pepper, oregano and graphite on a solid background of blackberry. The mouthfeel is rich yet streamlined, with an acidity typical of Cabernet Franc but not at all crude and with tannins that are even sweet. A slight grassy note is only noticeable in the finish, while the aftertaste is fruity and slightly spicy hot. This is a mix of New World wine, more centered in fruit than herbs, and an Old World one, due to its dynamism. Truly excellent.
Cappitano Marche Rosso 2016
89/100 - € 55
Made from Merlot grapes and matured for 24 months in new barriques. A dark and stratified color and a very compact aroma of cloves, bitter herbs and black cherry. The mouthfeel is decidedly rich with rich tannins and a classic finish that plays more on persistence than diversity with a note of dark chocolate in the aftertaste. A wine for those who like a muscular Merlot.
Trimpilin Marche Rosso 2015
87/100 - € 25
A Sangiovese matured in barrels of different sizes for 12 months. A medium, ruby-garnet color and an unusual aroma of gingerbread and potpourri surrounded by a light, earthy note on a cherry background. The mouthfeel is straightforward with lively tannins, a note of tobacco at the center of the palate and a finish that tends towards being simple.
Cuchèn Marche Bianco 2018
85/100 - € 15
Made from Albanella (a Trebbiano Toscano biotype) and matured on the lees in stainless steel vats. A pale, straw color and an aroma of sage, pear pulp and a hint of yeast. The mouthfeel evolves very delicately and the finish is slight bitter.
