Pizzolato’s green soul

by Riccardo Viscardi 11/14/18
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Famiglia Pizzolato Cantina Vini Biologici Veneto

Certified organic since 1991, the Settimo Pizzolato wine estate offers a line full of wines with an excellent quality/price ratio.

Losing a bet with someone in PR can have some serious consequences, like having to buy a train ticket to Treviso. This is the land where Prosecco became an “Italian Wine Phenomenon” but for those who have no great love for bubby there is nothing to get excited about. I had a vague hope of coming across a nice Raboso or a DOCG Malanotte del Piave but I was fooling myself. However, in the end I came across a very interesting estate headed by Settimo Pizzolato, a charming and pragmatic man who had the foresight to transform a struggling estate specialized in fruit and vegetables into an organic wine estate with a seven-figure turnover.

The core business is obviously Prosecco but they also produced some sparkling wines using Chardonnay and Incrocio Manzoni, a Glera rosé and some vintage Raboso. Aware of the recent modifications made to production regulations that now allow for a Prosecco rosé, they blended in my beloved Raboso still wine while maintaining their commitment to organic methods which has been certified since 1991, back when no one thought it was important. The new winery respects the principles of organic, eco-sustainable architecture and was selected to be part of the Italian pavilion at the Venice Biennale.

Settimo’s green or environmental soul has led him to move around using hybrid or totally electric vehicles and to be involved in social initiatives including buying the sports facilities of the bankrupt Treviso soccer club in order to create a local team for both boys and girls. In the wine sector, he has recently focused his attention on disease-resistant varietals for which he has earmarked several experimental vineyards.

All the estate’s wines are offered at extremely competitive prices based on the conviction that wine should remain a quality product for the common good and be easily accessible for the consumer. We sampled some extremely correct and pleasing wines that confirmed the reliability of the estate’s full line of production. I was particularly impressed by three of their still wines: Piave DOC Incrocio Manzoni 2017, the Raboso Malanotte del Piave DOCG Il Barbarossa 2013 and the sweet wine Alba Chiara, which were all good and with an excellent quality/price ratio. To complete the “table selection”, we have added a Prosecco Superiore, Brut Stefany, which is excellent as an aperitif but they have wines to meet any taste and preference.

All the following wines ate certified organic.

Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Docg Brut Stefany

Made from Glera grapes with secondary fermentation in an autoclave. The wine has a very clear, straw-yellow color with light, green reflections, while fruity apple notes are at the center of the nicely harmonious aroma. The mouthfeel is as you would expect a Prosecco to be: delicate, fresh and easy to drink.

86/100

€ 10

 

Piave Incrocio Manzoni 2017  

A wine made using only Incrocio Manzoni grapes 10% of which matured in wood while the rest on the lees in stainless steel. It has a straw color with yellow reflections and a clear and clean aroma with notes of pear, peach and white flowers with a hint of anise. The mouthfeel has a nice attack and flavorful progression with a fine acidity and consistent finish. The 2012 held up excellently with its citrus and smoked tones.

89/100

€ 8

Malanotte del Piave Il Barbarossa 2013

Made from only Raboso grapes, 30% of which raisinated for some 30 days, and matured in barrels and barriques for around 24 months. The wine has an intense and dark, ruby color with a warm yet brilliant aroma with notes of prune, cherry and a dark, floral touch as well as slightly smoky and spice sensations. The mouthfeel is flavorful and intense with a nice progression and distinct yet elegant tannins with a flavorful, fresh and very persistent finish.

91/100

€ 28

Veneto Bianco Alba Chiara 2016  

A blend of Glera and Incrocio Manzoni grapes that raisinate for three months in racks while the wine ferments and matures in stainless steel. The color is a sunny yellow and the aroma intense with notes of citrus, white hawthorn flowers and a very intense hint of nectarine and apricot. The mouthfeel has a thick texture but it is not too sweet, thanks to an excellent balance between the sugar and the acidity, and progresses towards a persistent, agile and juicy finish. *500ml bottle.

90/100

€ 20*   


 

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