An enjoyable Marche Cabernet

If it is true that Cabernet Sauvignon was brought to the Marche region by Napoleon’s troops at the beginning of the 19th century and that, as experts demand, a grape must have existed in a particular area for at least a couple of centuries to be defined as ‘indigenous’, then it would not be blasphemy to say that this champion Bordeaux variety here, in lower Macerata province, can be considered to be a native grape.

Civitanova Marche is a stone’s throw from the sea and although is not well-known as a winemaking area, Boccadigabbia is its leading wine estate. While it may not be on the tip of every wine lover’s tongue today, the estate was in the media spotlight in the 1990s thanks to some excellent vintages of Akronte, a top Cabernet Sauvignon varietal. Its quality was confirmed during a recent vertical tasting of the wine with a 1992 that was a bit phenolic and tight on the palate but very young, a 1996 that seemed of have enhanced its fruit and structure through aging, a rich 1998, a most elegant 2004 and a sumptuous 2007, just to cite a few.

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