A Verdicchio that needs time

A Castelli di Jesi Riserva is, in theory, a Verdicchio that can evolve and improve through aging in the bottle. It is a wine that slowly, over the years, enhances the traits it received from the land and the harvest it was from. It has nothing to do with merely quantitative or enological aspects, like structure, alcoholic content and so on, as long it is technically well-made to begin with.

The closest similar wines can be found in France, where the white wines that age the best are often thinner and sharper than those that are consumed young.

There are two facts regarding Castelli di Jesi Riserva about which there is no question. The first is that there are not many estates in Castelli di Jesi that produce a Riserva the proper way, preferring to add mass or volume through late harvests or using wood.

The second is that Utopia is certainly one of those restricted number of Riserva wines that, in my view, best represent the way they are supposed to be made. The progenitor of this proper style in the area is Bucci.

Utopia is a wine that after some bluntness of certain recent vintages (the 2010 seems like a Chablis from a cold year) has been improving year after year. And the 2013 vintage is becoming greater day by day.

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