Beyond the stars

We at DoctorWine are firmly convinced that the true strength of Italian restaurants lies with the fact that thousands offer a cuisine that is accessible, based on local prime ingredients and offered at a reasonable price.

Our editorial of two weeks ago dedicated to the excessive media attention paid to restaurants receiving the Michelin Guide’s famous star ratings sparked different reactions and even some polemics. It would appear that I did not make myself clear because I had no intention to criticize the cost of certain establishments. All I intended to draw attention to was the fact that a lot is said about “starred” chefs when, in reality, very few can afford to go to their restaurants.

In other words, I did not say the prices were unjustified, only that these restaurants are reserved for those who can allow themselves such an expenditure, as is the case for the whole luxury sector. The question I wanted to pose was: wouldn’t it make more sense and be more useful to readers to write about those restaurants that are more approachable for those who are not necessarily so well off?

Furthermore, can one really say that the “starred” chefs are the ones who truly represent the very best of Italian gastronomy?

These were two simple questions that had no intention to criticize or make a mortal judgment. Personally, I am firmly convinced that the true strength of Italian restaurants lies with the fact that thousands offer a cuisine that is accessible, based on local prime ingredients and offered at a reasonable price.

The same could be said about the wine sector and I say this just to be clear and not expose ourselves to unnecessary criticism, seeing how DoctorWine essentially writes about wine

The fact is that one should not ignore luxury, “starred” restaurants, just as they should not ignore certain great and expensive iconic wines. What is important is to not limit oneself to just talking about them and focus too much on the so-called “products of excellence”, which are unreachable for most people. Otherwise, there is a risk of increasing the evident divide between wine and food criticism and the economic reality of the vast majority of wine and food lovers.

One more consideration. It should not go unnoticed that this year the Michelin Guide, for the first time, did not review hotels and has thus become something much different than a publication dedicated to the traveler, as well as the gourmet, as it was before.

In other words, it has become even more specifically focused and less of a service in the broad sense of the term.

There is also a risk that the guide will be targeting its potential readers in a more elitist way. Perhaps the time has come to consider whether it might now be opportune to decidedly move beyond the stars.