André the Voice of Wine

The life of enologist André Tchelistcheff is the subject of a film made by his nephew Mark that was presented together with an unforgettable wine tasting.

Although the focus of Vino VIP Cortina is and will probably always be the excellence of Italian wine in Italy and abroad, the 12th edition revealed an aspect that appeared evident: wine from abroad is becoming more and more intriguing. It was easy to come to this conclusion, especially when one takes into account one name above all others. André Tchelistcheff.

Before passing away in 1994, this man had a truly extraordinary and unusual life. An enologist of great sensitivity and knowledge, he was a man decidedly tied to science but also to human experiences. Tchelistcheff’s life is now the subject of a film made by the nephew of the great enologist, Mark Tchelistcheff, entitled: André the Voice of Wine.

It is a moving film both from a technical point of view and a cultural one. It is a great story which deserved to be told, be it in writing be it on the screen.

André Tchelistcheff was born in Russia and already as a child had a passion for nature and science. There were many circumstances, some even dramatic, that led André to produce some of the most important and celebrated wines in and of the world. These included Italy’s famous Ornellaia while abroad his (infallible or almost) instinct led to codifying and enhancing the value of unusual territories, like the California’s winemaking regions of Sonoma and the Napa Valleys.

Following the projection of The Voice of Wine we were treated to an exclusive wine tasting of the following wines, all products of Tchelistcheff’s creative genius.

- Aiken Wines - Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2013
- Aiken Wines - Pinot Noir Sonoma Mountain 2013
- Alquimista Cellars - Van der Kamp Vineyard, Pinot Meunier Sonoma Mountain 2018
- Alquimista Cellars - Mes Filles Vineyard, Chardonnay Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2017
- Alquimista Cellars - Mes Filles Vineyard, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2016
- Grgich Hills Estate - Chardonnay Napa Valley 2015
- Grgich Hills Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2015
- Jordan Winery - Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2017
- Jordan Winery - Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2015
- Jordan Winery - Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2014
- Tenuta dell'Ornellaia - Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore Doc 2015
- Ste. Michelle Wine Estate - Col Solare, Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2014
- Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars - Fay, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2015

A few considerations. First of all, I have to take my hat off to the Ornellaia 2015 and while I cannot say that I taste this wine every day, believe me when I say I can remember every time I have tasted it. This 2015 is an emotional experience thanks to a harvest that gave complexity and harmony to the wine as well as eternal flavor, thanks also to Olga Fusari, a young enologist who is as modest as she is determined.

The English expression “you better watch your back” in this case could be applied to the French, great producers of Pinot Noir and Bordeaux blends, who should keep an eye on what California producers are doing. Their Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have great elegance and finesse and are wines that could fool even the more expert palate. Nothing could be more disorientating (as well as exciting) than to believe that a Chardonnay, for example is French and then discover that it is from the sunny Sonoma Valley. Or that a such a taut and balanced Cabernet is not the product of hundreds of years of European winegrowing and enology but from a producer in the Alexander Valley.

My observations are in no way intended to be offensive againsy French wine (how could anyone?), nor do I wish to adulate American winemakers. What I would like to underscore is just this: Tchelistcheff’s genius was his ability to look beyond and imagine the potential of a new area for winegrowing and today we can, and must, appreciate the result in the glass.

Another aspect that made this tasting unique were the producers who, before personally serving us their wines, also appeared in the film to tell us about their experiences with André Tchelistcheff and his relationship with their vineyards, wines and the wineries.

For further information: http://andrethevoiceofwine.com