The DOCG Tullum appellation and reflections on Abruzzo

Without a common vision on production and the direction to take in the future, it will be difficult for an appellation and a region to evolve.

Is it news that a small Doc appellation, only 18 hectares with three producers, has been upgraded to a DOCG status? Not really except that we don’t know what wines this DOCG will produce and it does offer an occasion to reflect on the situation in the region of Abruzzo. These reflections arose during an on-site a pool-side dinner-presentation and listening to addresses that underscored the mentality in the region, we were able to draw conclusions both positive and negative, depending on which of the two territorial development plans will be adopted.

One would think that the presentation of a new DOCG classification would see the participation of all those involved who should be pleased with this important upgrading for the appellation. Unfortunately, this was not the case and the first disappointment was that of the area’s three producers, the only private estate did not send its wines nor did they even show up, complaining that the cost of the event was too high: around 1,000 euros. Well, if a DOCG classification for your appellation is not worth 1,000 euros maybe you have some priority problems. But then not “walking a mile in your shoes” means we cannot pass judgement.

The other two producers, well-established cooperatives in the region, had a totally different approach to the event but were not on the same page. One saw the future as an opportunity to launch the zone, enhance it with quality wine and in this way create a virtuous cycle that could set an example for the whole region. The other demanded an immediate financial betterment for its members since the appellation was now classified as DOCG. This is a position I have difficulty agreeing with because profits should be distributed only once objectives have been achieved and, in this case, it would perhaps be better to reinvest some of the profits, if there are any, into the territory and thus the product. For sure, one should not just profit from the DOCG upgrade that, at best, will result in the price of your wine rising by 0.15 euros in a supermarket. This also in consideration of the fact that there are no supermarket sales and, in any case, they are not the best venue to enhance the value of a new DOCG.  Added to this, this wine is made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which does not fetch more than 0.65 euros a liter wholesale.

The numbers concerning the DOCG Tullum are very small, 18 hectares of vineyards with only 70% of production bottled. Of these 18 hectares, eight are Montepulciano, 5.5 Pecorino and just over four Passerina. Thus to speculate on just the DOCG wine would be a bit of a stretch.

Another consideration is that Abruzzo also produces Pecorino wines that for a while were doing well on the market thanks to their distinct personality and adaptability to the environmental and climactic conditions in Abruzzo. However, this success has stalled because, rather than managing this success, some “genius” thought it best to exploit the short-term and triple the vineyards land of this varietal and flood the market with low quality products. The result has been a drastic drop in price for the grapes with a subsequent decline in quality.

One final consideration: perhaps the wine cooperatives should ask themselves why of the over 80% of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo they produce, 60% is bottled outside the region. This is a very big problem, first in regard to quality and then the economic side or vice versa. I hope that Pecorino will not suffer the same fate and that a small DOCG appellation like Tullum can be a bud for the rebirth of this wonderful region and its fantastic varietals.