Zuma, the taste and spirit of Japan

There was much curiosity surrounding the opening of the Japanese restaurant Zuma, the brainchild of German chef Rainer Becher and the talented entrepreneur Arjun Waney.  It opened first in London in 2002 and in a short period of time became a global phenomenon with ten branches in various countries. What Becher, a great expert and fan of Japanese cuisine and culture who spend a long time in Tokyo, set out to do was to make the traditional and informal Izakaya cusine known in western countries, even if he re-elaborated it with a contemporary flair.

We, too, at DoctorWine were filled with curiosity when we crossed the threshold of the Zuma restaurant on the top floor of the Fendi Building, after entering through the special entrance from via Fontanella Borghese in the central heart of Rome. Japanese interior decorator Noriyoshi Muramatsu has designed all the Zuma restaurant from the beginning using common characteristics as well as incorporating some typical to the host city. The common ones include the natural elements of air, earth and fire with an ample use of Thai wood (the tables cut lengthwise from a single piece of wood that retain their natural imperfections are impressive), bamboo, red stone and glass. A reference to city life is provided by the Kawara tiles which are traditionally used to decorate the corners of roofs in Tokyo.

Once out of the elevator, a curved hallway leads to the restaurant and it is decorated on one side with bamboo canes while the other is covered by individually painted Tohiki ceramic tiles. The large, main dining room is elegant yet warm and inviting. Its windows offer suggestive views of the capital including the fashionable via Condotti, the Trinità dei Monti matching church bell towers and the Spanish Stairs, while in front is the Fuksas’ lantern on top of the Unione Militare building.

The menu has more than the usual sushi and sashimi, even though these are impeccably made, because at Zuma you can chose from a host of delectable dishes from the main, open kitchen. The kitchen is run by Chef Massimiliano Blasone who, after being ‘trained’ at the restaurant in London, brought the Becker philosophy to Rome. You can also choose dishes from the robata, the Japanese grill with various height settings and its hot coals welcome you when you enter from the hallway.

or lunch from Tuesday through Friday there is an interesting fixed ebisu menu with three or four servings, which cost respectively 21 and 28 euros. We preferred to choose from the ample a la carte menu and to our complete satisfaction. Given all the choices available and which should be tasted, here we will describe only some examples we tried with the promise of returning to review many others. We began with an assortment of sushi, sashimi and a tempura of vegetables and fish all of rare quality. Then we dove into the main dishes, picking them from various locations, and the Zuma experience became sublime to say the least. Everything was presented and served impeccably without being stuffy by the young and competent waiters. We chose different dishes and then shared them as good friends do in order to best enjoy the full experience. The dishes we tried included a fresh tartar of salmon and tuna with rice crackers, roasted lobster with green chili pepper and hojiso flowers and a tender and spicy-hot wagyu (really hot and a must for those who love the burn). Then there was black cod marinated with miso and wrapped in hoba leaves, which was delicious and caramelized to perfection on the traditional grill, and tasty skewers of bacon with yuzu miso mostarda. For those with a sweet tooth you cannot miss the sundae with Jasmine flowers and wild strawberries on frozen vanilla yogurt.

Lunch would not be lunch without wine and the wine list had 200 selections from both Italy and abroad. The cellar is managed by Michele Brando, a talented and prepared sommelier with a vast knowledge of traditional sake thanks to his experience at the Zuma restaurant in London, which has the largest selection of the Japanese wine in Europe with 350 examples. Thanks to his great professionalism, Brando can advise clients on the wine or sake to pair with the dishes they have selected. Zuma also has the traditional alcoholic beverage Biwa no Choju which is produced exclusively for Zuma with water from Lake Biwa. The wine room can be seen through a glass wall and includes some of Italy’s best wines. There is also a Thai wooden table that can seat up to eight people who wish to enjoy the pleasures of good wine and the excellent Zuma cuisine.

Above the restaurant is a magnificent terrace with breathtaking views of the Eternal City that hosts a Lounge Bar where from sunset to late at night you can enjoy music selected by visiting DJs and creations from bartender Stefano D’Ippolito, including an excellent Negroni aged in amphorae that are also used for its preparation.