Red Fish, seafood cuisine with style

For anyone in Rome who has a longing for the sea and fresh fish, the best way to satisfy both desires is to head to the seaside suburb of Ostia. For sure, the sea there does not have the Caribbean colors of Puglia but the food at Red Fish is more than comparable to what is served in those small restaurants in Italy’s heel. Ostia has all the defects of a seaside city, especially in winter, and the entrance to this restaurant has a lot in common with a shopping mall.

However, once you are inside everything changes. The décor is clean, sober and harmonious, making you feel as if you have been transported to another dimension. The natural lighting from the large windows and the tables set with taste and designer objects are enough to improve any mood.

The menu is intriguing because of the decidedly original names of the plates like “nuances of mackerel’ or “bucolic cod”. In the end I did what I always do and chose one of the two fixed menus and let the chef do the rest.

All the dishes were excellent both in regard to presentation and the skill that went into making them. The squid stuffed with buffalo ricotta cheese and Parmigiano biscuit was full-flavored and tender, creamy and crispy at the same time. The scallops ‘alla Milanese’ had Jerusalem artichoke with wasabi mayonnaise and was an intense dish with the right balance between sweet and spicy. The creamy cod tortello (stuffed pasta) with tomato sauce and lemon confit had a pleasing balance between sweet and salty and its consistency is clear evidence of Antonio Gentile’s skill as a chef. The provola-stuffed ravioli with turnip tips, mussels and Tropea onion moved the flavors to a new level, more pronounced and distinct, like the body of a ballet dancer, graceful and balanced yet muscular at the same time.

The second course included Cod at 63° with Jerusalem artichoke and Neapolitan tarallo pretzel as well as tuna with tuna mayonnaise sauce. Both were delicious.

To end there was a chocolate ‘Globe’ filled with tiramisu and crème anglaise that was voluptuously wonderful and is not to be missed.

The wine list was ample, well-selected and with honest prices. They also have a selection of liqueurs, a fish bar and a terrace with tables for dinning in fine weather. This restaurant was a pleasant surprise, eclectic and with service that was courteous and never overbearing. I strongly recommend it.

ENJOY THE READING BY NINO FRANCO!