Osteria Palmira and the reliability of three generations

A neighborhood osteria in Rome's Monteverde Vecchio, a delightful, solid trattoria all about traditional Roman dishes.

The Monteverde Vecchio neighborhood, which until 80 years ago was practically smack in the middle of the countryside on the outskirts of Rome and is now instead an elegant central district close to Villa Pamphili, is home to--at 29 Via Abate Ugone--a tavern that opened nine years ago but boasts a long family tradition behind the stove. In fact, the grandmother of current owners Claudio and Assunta Rocchi, Signora Assuntina, stands out - snow-white hair and proud frown - in a large black-and-white photo hanging in the dining room in front of a trattoria on Via del Boschetto in 1958. It was there that Claudio and Assunta grew up with mother Palmira and father Antonio. Growing up among the smells of gravy and sizzling pans, catering is in their blood. 

The family's origins are in Amatrice, and the cult of good cured meats and cheeses has come down to us over the years. So now there are Claudio and Assunta, the third generation, carrying on the family tradition. Claudio, after various experiences always in the restaurant business-in the hearts of customers there is still his Bros', a Brazilian eatery in Trastevere-has returned to his roots by opening with his sister this delightful and solid trattoria all focused on traditional Roman dishes.

The ambience is spartan but warm and familiar, jugs for house wine hanging on the entrance counter, where a beautiful old wooden bench is striking, a few well-arranged tables and many bottles of wine on the shelves on the walls. A pleasant outdoor veranda and small tables also on the sidewalk shaded by the avenue trees. I smiled profusely upon entering to an exquisite welcome. It was my first time there but I already felt "at home."

The menu is streamlined, enjoyable and inviting. Lots of tradition and even a few dishes that are really rare to find around now. I try the Bread and Chicory Meatballs, big, soft, of substance and flavorful: when simplicity becomes absolute goodness. I continue with the Crostini con patè di fegatini, I love them, not easy to find in the Capital but I realize with every bite why Osteria Palmira is one of the best trattorias in Rome. The triptych of appetizers I close with the Spezzatino alla Picchiapo', slightly spicy, with a well-pulled sauce and the tiny little morsels of meat very tender, the excellent bread from the basket to dunk in profusion. Enjoyment.

Fast forward to the first courses, again, a triptych: Rigatoni alla Gricia, Spaghetti all'Amatriciana and Fettuccine with fava beans, guanciale and pecorino cheese. The menu specifies that the dry pastas are Felicetti and that the fresh pastas are all strictly handmade by Assunta. Well, kudos to Assunta, heartily! I haven't had fettuccine like this, a bit erect, porous and elastic in a while, very good. Richly seasoned and mantecate with just enough pecorino cheese to make cremina with the starch of the pasta. The other two first courses with generous portions were also good. 

Among the main courses, although I am already saturated, I do not give up Le lumache al sugo. You can't find them anymore, in Rome almost impossible. I love them and was fully satisfied. Served in a soup tureen with the appropriate wooden toothpicks, don't be afraid to get your hands and shirt soaked, everything washes up afterwards and it's undoubtedly worth it. Tip for more trained stomachs: if, once the snails are finished, there is sauce left in the bowl, send it back to the kitchen and have a serving of rigatoni thrown in...I assure you, you will have my full appreciation!

The desserts, a Tiramisu and a Citrus Burnt Cream, I liked less. The Tiramisu a little too "creamy" and the caramelized sugar crust of the Burnt Cream not as crispy as it should be but maybe a little bit the heat, a little bit the guilt will have affected. 

A neighborhood osteria where word of mouth is the calling card because as Claudio says, "out here there are no monuments, here you come for us," and he is absolutely right. Nice foams, reductions, powders and gels, but the true and unique taste of tradition cannot be equaled. Never. It may be a catch phrase, but it is like fashions, they pass, classic clothes remain timeless.

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