Osteria Ophis is convincing and satiating

Edible tombolo lace sit on a pillow in the middle of the plate. An icon of city tradition (Offida is known as the city of tombolo lace), on the palate it removes its mask and becomes vegetal yet generous, even rounded. This is history without being too serious, in other words, Osteria Ophis is in a nutshell.

As the Marche region’s southern wine capital – a kind of Piceno Montalcino a stone’s throw from Abruzzo – Offida not only deserved a place like this, it needed one. It is located on a street in the center of town, on Corso Serpente Aureo, which has finally begun to ‘smell’ like wine. It is also the consecration of the incredible quality leap made by wine from the area, now also for white wine thanks to Pecorino.

And what is around the tombolo? A cuisine that is convincing and satiating. And with an eye on Piedmont (a wonderful Marche tartar) and another on classic French haut cuisine (the salted Bavarian is anything but frivolous), it is able to express post-modern reality – the can of cold meat, a clear homage to chef Moreno Cedroni – to attract a young and metropolitan clientele.

The menu above all focuses on the local ingredients, as well it should. Not to be missed are the Campofiloni (very thin noodles typical of Fermano and authentic sauce sponges) and the impeccably cooked pork fillet en croute. The cheese selection is excellent, something not always the case around here.

The service is laidback, youthful and courteous and the wine list is rightfully centered on the great wines of the area with reasonable markups. All these factors help you overlook a décor that leaves something to be desired.

The quality/price ratio is outstanding: between 25 and 30 euros for a full meal.

After eating take a walk around Offida, it will leave you speechless.