Osteria dal Duca in Verona, simply unmissable

An osteria-the oldest in town-family-run, offering good typical regional cuisine and an excellent wine list. What more could you want?

Verona, the Arena, the elegant and narrow alleys, the noble palaces and the little squares that pop up by surprise. This city, a bit like all of us who hang out in the wine world, I've come to know and love year after year, even though I only experience it for a few moments and most of the time dragging myself (feet still aching) to a table for dinner after the day spent at the fair at Vinitaly. 

I've always loved to play at imagining Shakespearean Verona, feeling a bit like I'm in a theater set, the light always the same...the shadows lengthening in a glimmering sunset, the sometimes excessive buzz of swarming people, and here I am at Osteria dal Duca.

But let's get down to business: this restaurant occupies the first and second floors of a crenellated house from the 13th century that belonged to the Montecchi family and in which that Romeo who, together with Juliet, was the protagonist of the world's most famous love story is said to have been born and lived.

These premises were initially used as stabling for horses, and were later transformed into an inn and place of refreshment for wayfarers, where tasty dishes of tripe or pastissada could be enjoyed, accompanied by polenta and local wines. A tradition continued over the years, leading it to be the oldest inn in town.

A warm and welcoming place, furnished in a rustic style with exposed beams, good food and a wine cellar that offers the best of Veronese wine production at extremely reasonable prices.

A true family-run osteria, where we eat dishes of Veneto cuisine: bigoli al torchio with donkey ragout, pappardelle with duck sauce, pasta and fasoi, the almost unobtainable trifoliate snails, pastissada de caval...

We come every time, booking well in advance. Two shifts: 7:30 or 9:30 pm, we always on the first shift. A war machine this trattoria: tightly packed tables and wait staff who move through them with the familiarity of those who have taken those steps a million times. Family and friendly service despite the hectic pace.

This time we tasted the excellent penne radicchio and gorgonzola, the legendary bigoli all'acciuga with raisins and pine nuts - really delicious - made strictly by hand and with that sweet/salty contrast that puts you at peace with the world. Among the second courses not to be missed are both the escargots and the pastissada de caval (horse stew) both served with excellent polenta. The escargots, I confess, I had agreed to leave some for one of the diners to taste, but I got distracted and as I bit into the last bite I looked at him mortified at the embarrassment! The beef stew was also very good.

We close on a sweet note with the chocolate salami also because although we no longer have room for dessert a small piece each fits.

The cost of dinner for a first and second course is 22 euros. Very honest bill for the generous portions and the quality of the dishes. 

If you are passing through Verona go there, as for me, for the next fair I will book for the fourteenth time, so many times I have attended Vinitaly.

Related Products