Moreno Cedroni’s Madonnina del Pescatore
An amazing, 25-year-old restaurant that consistently offers great experiences, surprises and an innovative cuisine.
Moreno Cedroni is without a doubt one of my favorite chefs and, judging by his two Michelin stars , I am not alone. He is brilliant, versatile and fun.
With his flair and imagination he can transport you to new worlds through food. Creations that recall tradition but that are revamped with skill and elegance, influenced by his personal experiences. The flavors from his youth are mixed together with the trips he has made around the world and transformed into authentic visual and flavor masterpieces. His dishes make you want to photograph them, and this long before the fad of food blogging, to immortalize them as one would a breathtaking landscape or a work of art. This explains why Moreno can easily be defined as an artist.
His wife Mariella is his equal. Thanks to her the restaurant is full of light and you feel as if you have been welcomed into a star-studded paradise. The only difference is that this paradise feels like home with its warmth and authenticity. And this is one of the things that makes me love this place. With her kindness and charm, Mariella is without a doubt one of the best hostesses I know.
My meal began with a Pan brioche lievitato con gorgonzola dolce e acciughe (popover filled with sweet gorgonzola and anchovies) accompanied by a frozen margarita. This was followed by Ostrica cotta in griglia con lime, pepperoncino, e cipolla croccante (grilled oyster with lime, chili pepper and crispy onions), created after a trip Moreno made to Vietnam. Then came Ricciola in salsa di porro e lemongrass, viola del pensiero, gelatina di basilico e amaranto fritto (amberjack in a sauce of leeks and lemongrass, pansies, basil gelatin and fried amaranthine).
The novelty of 2016 was Mazzancolle turgide, con maionese allo yuzu, granita di cipolle di Tropea, cipolla agrodolce e porro fumé (bloated jumbo shrimp with yuzu maionnaise, Tropea onion ice, sweet-and-sour onion and smoked leeks).
One of the most historic and best-known dishes at Madonnina del Pescatore is a selectoin of raw foods Sushi & susci, which has been on the menu since 1998. It includes shrimp with orange zest and roasted green tomatoes, seabass with tomato juice and flying fish eggs, lobster with mixed fresh vegetables, scallops with a potato and lime purée, red tuna with anchovy paste and a fresh tomato and green salad and, to finish off, mackerel marinated with tomatoes and seitan.
Among the first courses there is Lasagna di fruiti di mare in bianco con salsa di cocco, prezzemolo e lime (white lasagna with seafood and a sauce of coconut, parsley and lime). There is also Spaghettoro Verrigni agli scampi (Verrigni pasta with scampi) with fresh tomatoes, ginger and a cabbage sauce, created in 1994.
The second courses include Guazzetto “al forno” di pesci, molluschi e croatacei con sentori di anice stellate (“baked” fish stew with fish and shellfish seasoned with star anise), which is a totally original interpretation of the traditional Marche dish “Padellaccia”.
Remember to leave room for dessert, like 25 grammi di gelato al cubo (25g cubed of gelato), which is white chocolate ice cream with a sauce of passion fruit and grilled thyme and pomelo. But above don’t miss La tavola del Risiko (Risk board), an example of the chef’s brilliance in which the little tanks are replaced by the sweet essence of the place it sits on. North America has peanut butter with yogurt powder, Africa has white chocolate, licorice, lemon and powdered coffee, on India is chocolate, masala sauce and dried tomatoes, on Siberia you will find chocolate, raspberry and vodka, while Europe is represented by Venice with the only gelatin in the world made from with a spritzer flavor.
These are only a sampling of gourmet dishes that will amaze both the eye and palate offered by Moreno Cedroni, who continuously revamps and elaborates new creations and new flavors.
This is a super place for a romantic evening with its view of the Marzocca beach, next to Senigallia, its blue crystal glasses and porcelain sculptures. An ideal location for a special and unforgettable night
Madonnina del Pescatore is fun also during the day thanks to the nearby bathing establishments where you can enjoy a day at the beach under an umbrella with the beautiful Adriatic Sea in front of you to then take a break for a special, relaxing lunch where you can enjoy excellent food and wine at your own pace.
And this because the Wine List is impressive . It includes domestic wines, with a fine selection of regional ones, as well as Champagnes and international wines. There are also wines in special sizes and vertical tastings of old vintages.
The wine I chose was a Mirum Fattoria Monacesca, a 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica Reserve (a magnum costs 85 euros), a great Verdicchio from the upper Esino Valley. The long ripening of the grapes and the long aging creates intense aromas of candied passion fruit, acacia honey and toasted almonds, while the full, exalting and rounded body offers persistence, depth and a long life.