Atlas Coelestis, the hidden treasure of Cristina and Cristiano

An unusual marriage between beer and cuisine in times not suspected, Atlas Coelestis has evolved by enriching the kitchen and giving space to wine, always with strict respect for the raw materials of departure.

This time I will not talk about the dishes tasted or the textures and flavors, because here at Atlas Coelestis they are almost the obvious complement to the whole context that Cristina in the dining room and Cristiano in the kitchen have managed to create in this hidden corner of the Capital. In a side street of Via Cortina d'Ampezzo, a beautiful residential area of northern Rome, hidden from the bustle of Capitoline traffic and tourist routes, here is a very quiet and elegant neighborhood restaurant. 

Atlas Coelestis was born in 2001 from a "vision" of Cristiano Iacobelli, chef and patron, supported by his very sweet and knowledgeable wife Cristina. Yes, exactly of vision it was because the project then turned out to be laborious and onerous in its implementation. "Ab inizio erat beer"...unusual marriage, indeed unique, for that time between beer and cuisine, was the game and the challenge tells Cristiano. A direct, simple and textural cuisine paired mainly, but not only, with a home-brewed beer that followed the same logic of quality. Over time the evolution has been important and satisfying, like a child who grows and naturally changes, so the dishes have been enriched without ever losing the centrality of substance, the wine list has expanded by turning its gaze also to small Italian realities, but not only, in a journey to rediscover forgotten grape varieties that tell the identity of a territory.

The choice of products is has always been "good mileage" and the research done personally by visiting producers and farmers is their real fun, the absolute most enjoyable part of this work, for many as well as for me. We often and willingly set out in search of regenerative pastures, ethical farming, sustainable crops, raw milk cheeses, cured meats from semi-wild pigs, protagonists far from the sole purpose of economic profit. In fact, let's say that economic profit is the least of one's thoughts to keep the raw materials so high. There really is a visceral passion here for good eating and being well. We talk about producers and breeders such as Faraoni Farm, Pulicaro, Macchiusi's mozzarellas that you have to go there specifically to get from them because they do not deliver, the Bue Rosso Consortium, Gregorio Rotolo's cheeses but also Isigny's butter.

We can sum up the work in a few key words: Substance, Simplicity, Flavor, Research, Passion, words that have been their guide over the years.

The transformation in the kitchen is always unobtrusive, without neglecting technique, and is respectful of that raw material brought home with pride. Satisfying guests' taste buds is the ultimate goal of great work. A tidbit to tell is that Cristina comes from a family of ice cream makers: grandfather Giovanni and uncle Massimo Persiani, mom's brother who worked with them for the first eight years of the business and passed down to Cristina the recipes and rules of ingredient balancing in classic Italian school ice cream making. On my visit we tasted an excellent hazelnut and cherry semifreddo with an Italian-style meringue base that is now almost impossible to find in restaurants. Those classic Italian pastry desserts that are reminiscent of the flavors of our childhood such as the hard piece or zuccotto.

So much talk then these days about the choice of collaborators, here at Atlas Cristiano and Cristina have opted more on a "natural selection" than on "choice": we choose each other by affinity, Cristina proudly assures. The team is now a family, for many years and for many hours a day together sharing trials, tastings and fatigue, with those who have espoused the project.

The welcome is decontracted and informal without sinning on overconfidence, again aiming to convey substance rather than show form.

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