Trattoria all’Antica with Bar

The name is spot-on: Trattoria all’Antica in Milan is exactly that, an old-fashioned restaurant with an excellent regional cuisine and a list of the right wines.

Around a year ago, Luca Conti, a chef who need not look up at anyone being well-over six-feet tall, took over this traditional restaurant a stone’s throw from Via Solari and not far from Porta Genoa in Milan. He renovated it and decided on a menu inspired by traditional Lombardy cuisine but wisely lightened it up a bit. His ossobuco cremolata (creamy) is thus incredibly appetizing and much less “heavy” than one would expect and the risotto giallo (yellow rice) is simply perfect. The polpettone di manzo (meatloaf) is soft and delicious and has a side dish of crispy vegetables worthy of any “star” chef. The cotoletta (cutlet) has a “handle” and is quite thick with a state-of-the-art breading.

At the entrance is a long bar where you can also eat if you’re alone and don’t want a table. The wine list is particularly well-thought out with a small but fine selection. There are some 40 wines with some real jewels like Santa Maddalena Wassererhof, Roero Vigna San Bernardo Le More Bianche, Riesling Taschlerhof and Rosso Piceno Morellone Le Caniette, just to cite a few examples.

The bill is around 40 euros a head plus wine, the atmosphere is lively and the service very cordial. I returned twice in the space of a few days and never spent more than 55 euros a head, drinking adequately, and I had no regrets.

Because the word is getting around, it’s best to reserve well ahead of time given that there are not that many tables.

Trattoria all’Antica col Bar

Via Montevideo, 4

20144 Milano

Tel. +39 02 8372849

Chiuso la domenica

l.conti@anticatcb.it

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