Sushisen, elegant Japanese in Rome

If you want to experience real Japanese cuisine this is definitely one of the very few places in the Capital where you can go for sure.

Twenty years in business this year. So many years since Sushisen - a real Japanese restaurant as the sign reads - opened its doors in Rome's Piramide area. Artificer Kunihiro Giuliano Este, after experience in the dining room and kitchen at one of Japan's most famous ryokan, the Yoshikawaya (one of the emperor's summer residences) together with his mother Okochi Chikako (who will greet you smiling dressed in the traditional kimono).

An anonymous narrow street, a few steps to descend and we are catapulted into another continent. As in an immersive experience one is transported to another world, from the furnishings to the tableware, everything is artfully designed to make the Japanese dining experience as pleasant and complete as possible. As many as 15 all-Japanese chefs, led by Eiji Yamamoto of Hokkaido, oversee the kitchen and the beautiful, rich kaiten.  "Our cuisine is an expression of tradition and creativity. Starting from the absolute quality of unique and seasonal ingredients, we never cease to give new emotions, which arise from the authentic flavors of the tradition of the Rising Sun." When asked what difference most struck him between Italian and Japanese customers, his sympathetic response was "Italians take cooking much more seriously, and for that there is much more satisfaction." 

A Japanese restaurant, also signaled by the Michelin guide, which thus looks yes to Japanese tradition but likes to draw heavily on the seasonality of ingredients that the market offers. There are Omakase tasting courses, which in Japanese means "I trust you," in which the chef expresses all his flair. 

Kunihiro Giuliano, the owner, returns at least once a month to his homeland to stock up on rarities, fresh ingredients, rare sake and original spices, but also to choose the precious handmade dishes so that even the visual element contributes to the perfect course. Here they wink in every detail at that typical Japanese perfectionism according to which nothing can be left to chance. 

But let us come to the dishes tasted in my Omakase journey:

Coming first to the table is the Kushi style sashimi-a sashimi of Norwegian salmon, Sicilian red shrimp, and shrimp with chives, white soy vinaigrette, and organic tofu cream that seemed a shame to spoil. Presented in a fancy pipette inside a bamboo basket. Next comes the Tartare of sea bream, fresh persimmons, walnuts, vinaigrette gel and truffle: delicate but with character. Then comes the dish that impressed me the most: I wanted to taste some rice, and here the chef sends out a wonderful Japanese Risotto with shrimp water, giant scallop, real clams, spicy Okinawa taberu layu sauce. Definitely and unexpectedly the best dish of the evening. Balance, freshness, texture and flavor, a well-executed risotto but with that quid of oriental that made it special. Even the "simple" Nighiri of tuna, sea bass, shrimp and tuna belly and Uramaki in their essentiality reveal wisdom and great technical preparation. 

The dessert page is an extra treat, extreme care even here where many other Japanese restaurants leave something to be desired: the predessert is a delicate and almost impalpable White Melon and Yogurt Velouté and the two desserts tasted a Piedmont Hazelnut Rocher, Black Sesame Daquoise with Caramel Heart and Japanese Yuzu, and a Light White Chocolate, Chestnut and Tahiti Vanilla Mousse with a Heart of Williams Pear and Almond Dacquoise. Both good although definitely the second one had more intense flavor and superb presentation. Not surprisingly, all desserts are made in collaboration with Maitre Chocolatier Bellantoni, winner of the International Chocolate Awards as the world's best chocolatier. 

Also noteworthy is the wine list and the very rich selection of sake with bottles rare even in Japan and the best brands such as Hakkaisan and Kubota, as well as an important selection of Shochu including the prized and ancient Awamori from Okinawa and the Shiso Shochu made according to the great Japanese tradition with Shiso leaves. 

It is not a cheap restaurant, but if you want to experience real Japanese cuisine this is definitely one of the very few places in the Capital where you can go for sure. 

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