Italiano
San Marco’s moveable feast in Canelli
An historic restaurant where professionalism, ties to the land, wisdom and knowledge of the prime ingredients are what compose and distinguish the experience.
Before Christmas, Chef Mariuccia Ferrero and Piercarlo Roggero organized an itinerary party, a moveable feast, involving the Coppo and Contratto wineries and the Distilleria Bocchino to celebrate the first 60 years of their restaurant San Marco.
It was clearly an emotional experience for the owners and staff but above all a great demonstration of affection by those taking part towards the San Marco “family”. Local authorities, journalists, public figures and many friends of the restaurant had the opportunity to take part in an experience that was more unique than rare, flooding the streets of Canelli and reliving the history of the restaurant, step by step, though its historic dishes.
Yours truly not only took part in this exceptional event but has had occasion to frequent the restaurant at Via Alba 136 in Canelli. I can thus confirm that at San Marco professionalism, ties to the land, wisdom and knowledge of the prime ingredients are what compose and distinguish the experience. It is an experience that, among other things, will not only fill your hearts with joy but it will NOT empty your pockets. Going to eat at San Marco in a way means entering the world of Mariuccia and Piercarlo, two professionals who can make you feel part of the family and, at the same time, satisfy your every need. Theirs is surly an innate wisdom but also one consolidated over many years of experience.
The dishes
Tajarin 40 tuorli con tartufo (40-yolk noodles with truffles) deserves an Oscar. Creamy, sweet and flavorful and embellished by inebriating white truffles from Alba and Monferrato. It is impossible not to order this dish also because of its presentation at the table.
Their Bagna Cauda is incredibly good and rewarding and, I’d add, comforting. It includes a vast assortment of vegetables (from Jerusalem artichoke, sweet and floury, to cardoon, crispy with a distinct flavor) to dunk in a perfectly balanced, lukewarm sauce. If, like myself, you come from another region, this dish will not only stimulate your appetite but will also usher you into, at least during the meal, a Piedmont culinary universe.
I have a very wonderful memory of, and also some nostalgia for, the Raviolo a Culo Nudo (Bare-bottom Ravioli) and although Piedmont natives may frown, I cannot help but laugh over the name, only to stop laughing when I begin to eat it. At San Marco, I was served it the traditional way, in a napkin. The filling is of meat and, when in season, it is sprinkled with truffle flakes and accompanied by a bowl of broth in which a piece of 30-year-old Parmigiano Reggiano has been added.
Last but not least, I must mention the Cardo Gobbo and Ribiola di Roccaverano which are always extraordinarily good however they are served. In a risotto, as during the event marking the 60th anniversary, or, as they do at the restaurant, with eggs which are topped with truffle shavings.
Wine and distilled spirits were a fundamental part of the celebration. Bubbly is a growing presence in Piedmont and here there were those from Contratto, in particular their Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2015. It had an intense, golden color and tropical aromas with a creamy mouthfeel and a pronounced acidity. Worth mentioning was the Barbera d’Asti Camp du Rouss 2017 Coppo, a wine with a great balance between the sweet and fruity aromas and the acidity and tannins. Among the spirits from Distilleria Bocchino was Macaja Gin 45 components, a gin that speaks for itself.
And after expressing the esteem, truly sincere, and affection I have for this restaurant and the people who make it what it is, I have to touch on a sore point. And while it may be sore, it is not because anything they have done.
After 30 consecutive years with a Michelin star, the Red Guide in 2020 did not confirm this rating for Chef Ferrero’s restaurant. There was a DoctorWine article, written by Daniele Cernilli himself and published in November 25, in which he expressed his doubts over the guide and its benchmarks for evaluations, expressing his personal opinion that they were wrong to “undervalue traditional regional cuisine”. I could not have said it better and could not agree more with him more having seen with my own eyes and tasted with my own palate this injustice. But 30 years with a star cannot overshadow 60 years of activity carried out, undoubtedly, with great effort but also with great passion and always with a smile.
In conclusion, I would like to add another merit of this couple who, as if they are not already doing enough for the area, are also training new generations in this noble art and its noble recipes.
Cantine Coppo - https://www.coppo.it
Cantine Contratto - http://www.contratto.it
Distilleria Bocchino - https://www.bocchino.com
Salmone Upstream - https://www.upstreamsalmons.com
Selecta - Cioccolato Valrhona - http://www.selectaspa.it/partners/vedi/69/Valrhona-il-cioccolato-.html
Riso Gallo - https://www.risogallo.it
Panettone Albertengo - https://www.albertengo.com
INFO
San Marco
via Alba, 136
Canelli (Asti)
Tel. +39 0141823544
info@sanmarcoristorante.it
Tasting menus: 25, 48 e 55 euros
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02/20/20 | Iolanda Maggio | Orari: 12/14 -19.30 / 21.30 Domenica - 12/ 14- 19.30 / 21.30 Martedì e Mercoledì Chiuso tutto il giorno |
