La Strega Restaurant in the Land of Gravines

We are in Apulia, and the small family restaurant La Strega favors light cooking to safeguard the most authentic flavors. A riot of flavors at small prices.

In the nature reserve of Terra delle Gravine, on the western side of the Ionian province, the corrosive action of watercourses has created, over millennia, rocky gorges that, starting from the plateau, gently thin out toward the sea. To the eye the sharp and strong contrasts between slopes and heights stand out, interspersed with green forests, deep furrows and varied wild vegetation. These are the ravines, the canyons of Puglia. An area still far from tourist trends and unfortunately little known for its history, natural beauty and exquisite food and wine offerings. 

Inland, in Palagianello, a small town in the park, is home to La Strega restaurant, it was the first in Taranto and province to be awarded a Michelin star, the coveted recognition was confirmed without interruption from 2003 until 2010. The proponents and protagonists of that unexpected adventure were patron Michele Caramia and head chef Vito Netti. Today La Strega is a landmark in the local restaurant scene, the interesting culinary proposal, the careful selection of raw materials, a performing room that dialogues with the kitchen brigade and wants to grow are its flagship. 

It is a small family-run business at the helm are: Giuseppe Caffè, the chef, and Gianpaolo Caramia, the head of the dining room, son-in-law and son of the late patron, respectively. Both were part of the old team and trained there. "In those years we did important work in and out of the kitchen, it was a daring and adrenaline experience, but the user base was not yet ready," says Giuseppe Caffè. "I was Vito Netti's right-hand man, we worked together for 18 years, he was Bruno Barbieri's second. In a short time we went from making big numbers with the pizzeria to fine dining, let's not forget that we are in an area of the province with little tourism. We lack the competition that stimulates healthy competition." 

The name La Strega takes its cue from a friendly nickname given to the female figures in the family. The kitchen is open, from the dining room it is possible to observe what is to be done between the stoves, seasonality is respected, healthy, less aggressive, light and healthy cooking is preferred to safeguard the most authentic flavors, Giuseppe winks at tradition while giving the right space to his own creativity. The focaccia barese in the welcome is excellent, and some signature dishes have been confirmed on the menu, such as the Potato Gnocchi with real clams, cherry tomato fondant and basil pesto; the Cavatelli with mussels and beans from Rotonda or the Maccheroncino with donkey ragout, Polignano carrots and sweet pecorino cheese are no less. Delicious is the Millefoglie di pane di Laterza, the bread is cut into thin slices, toasted in the oven and topped with country chicory, Gravina balloon and marinated cherry tomatoes. Mouthwatering is the sweet Focaccia di mandorle di pasta sable with custard and vanilla ice cream. Do not underestimate the long-rising pizzas, which are light and tasty. 

The wine list consists of 400 labels, and sommelier Giuseppe Caragnano, who was just named best sommelier in Puglia, takes care of updating it by hunting for small producers, regional and otherwise. To begin with, in addition to the classic glass there is the opportunity to sip or accompany the meal with one of the original cocktails created by Francesco Perrone, for example the Strega spritz with Goldberg soda, Fiano di masseria Cicella, Strega liqueur, Nardini citron water. 

Surprising is the value for money, really honest, but don't tell people that.

La Strega Ristorante
Via Fratelli Bandiera, 61
74018 Palagianello (TA)
Tel. +39 320 7044416
www.ristorantelastrega.it
Facebook: La Strega Storia e Passione

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