Legendary Riesling (2): Trocken and Kabinet from Germany
Comprehending wine classifications, especially in Germany, is an arduous task but we tried to do it in yesterday’s introduction. It is more difficult in Germany because it is based on the sugar level of the must, after which producers interpret the harvest as they please, according to their style and the characteristics of a particular harvest. Further complicating matters is the fragmentation of the crus, the districts and personal interpretations of the harvest (with internal ‘selections’ that producers highlight with a golden capsule, the celebrated Goldkapsel). These wines are a voyage of discovery, vintage by vintage, creating expectations and a veil of mystery that make the wines even more intriguing. Drinking a great Riesling, especially an older one, is an experience and pleasure that is hard to match.
The first installment of our tasting reviews is dedicated to the ‘dry’ wines from Germany.