Wine and that’s all

On a visit to the Domaine of Romanée Conti I learned that the famous Burgundy estate was biodynamic but only in response to a direct question, not because they flaunted it as if it was essential for the image of their wines. When asked which producer association he belonged to, the one that produced ‘natural’ or ‘triple-A’ wine, Josko Gravner once replied: “I just make wine”. Both are examples of extraordinary winemaking, both very close to a sustainable approach to winemaking that respects the land, the area and the health of their neighbors and this without taking stands but rather opting for declarations of principle and, above all, setting an example. They make wine and that’s it, whether it is ‘also’ organic, biodynamic, ‘natural’, sustainable or whatever is secondary. I have cited only two example but there are others like Zind Humbrecht, Dettori, Manincor and Valentini. They are all great winemakers and leading figures in their respective ‘terroirs’, all estates that produce wines that exemplify the value of respecting the environment in a way that goes far beyond taking a side, which sometimes seems more like a modern marketing ploy than a deep and precise conviction. Those who choose to embrace biodynamic philosophy, for example, do this not just for technical or ‘agricultural’ reasons but to respect a life style choice, otherwise it is hollow and a bit calculated. All things considered, this is what bothers me the most. For sure, not being consistent or coherent is not a crime, but it tends to leave a bad impression of those who seek to be a ‘maître à pensér’ in the world of winemaking, often promoting positions that have not been proved, at least from a scientific point of view. Why don’t we all just talk about “wine and that’s all”? There are so many aspects about it and no lack of opinions that we could relate and explain. Why don’t we just try to explain ourselves and views better and provide a public service to wine lovers and consumers? I am not perfect but I try to take a democratic, educational approach, offering the information and tools needed to understand and be understood and this, I believe, is the right way to go.