The world loves Amarone

There are certain condescending wine critics who consider Amarone ‘below par’. This because its alcoholic content and the sugar residue are too high and because it is made from raisinated grapes. In other words, they consider it a ‘forced’ wine, one far from their concept of elegance which is exemplified in a Burgundy, a view shared by the majority of wine writers today. While what they say may be true, their views appear to be in sharp contrast to the tastes of many qualified wine consumers. Amarone, in fact, has become the most loved Italian red wine worldwide and its production has almost doubled over the past ten years. Its opulent characteristics, its aromas of black cherry preserved in alcohol and those of cacao and its bold flavor, even if there is a bit of sugar residue, has won over a very large sector of the international wine drinking public. This is true in the United States, in China, in Russia, in northern European countries and even in Italy. Can they all be wrong? Do they all have poor taste in wine? Or is it that certain critics have lost touch, forgotten their role as intermediary between producers and consumers and are upholding positions too distant from common tastes?

I have used Amarone as an example but I could have said the same things about Primitivo or some great intense wines like Kurni, which was recently the subject of a Doctor Wine article, or other wines with similar characteristics. I brought this up at Vinitaly with Angelo Velenosi when tasting her Roggio del Filare 2010, which is slightly sweeter than her other wines, although never more than four grams per liter. She told me that the greater sugar residue, which counterbalances the tannins and acidity, allowed her to triple her exports of this wine to the Far East. Thus it is clear that tastes and preferences are not the same everywhere. This was already known to Champagne producers who for centuries have modified the amount of sweet ‘liqueur d’expetition’ dosage they add depending on the market the wine is being exported to. It is also obvious to markets and anyone with some common sense. And it should be clear to certain wine critics who rather than try to impose their visions on the world should, in my opinion, try to interpret the one that exists.