Italiano
The Iron Baron
The current Iron Baron, a descendant of “that” Bettino Ricasoli, is Francesco Ricasoli, who with proud determination has restored Castello di Brolio wines to their former glory.
Bettino Ricasoli was the Iron Baron, prime minister of the newly founded Kingdom of Italy in 1861 to 1982, after Cavour, and in 1866-67 during the Third War of Independence. He was also heir to his family’s Castello di Brolio estates, in Gaiole in Chianti, their “central command”. Brolio and the surrounding lands were an authentic fiefdom, having been given to the Ricasoli family by the Holy Roman Emperor Henry VI in 1187.
I say all this because I think it is important to put things in their proper context and so when one speaks of Castello di Brolio and the Ricasoli family it should be understood that one is referring to a noble family with ancient roots as well as a wine production that has always existed, similar to Romanée Conti and just a handful of other places in the world. This also means that Brolio is irrefutably the historic Chianti Classico cru, something that had always been recognized at least until the 1960s. Then, for a number of reasons, things changed for the next 30 or so years, until Francesco Ricasoli, who had been engaged in other activities rather than winemaking, which had been ceded to others (with the vineyards fortunately remaining in the family), decided that it was unacceptable that the Chianti Classico Brolio name be in the hands of an eggnog producer.
Despite incredible difficulties, he was able to get back the brand, thanks also to the intervention of Lapo Mazzei, who was the then-president of the Consorzio del Chianti Classico and owner of the Castello di Fonterutoli wine estate but above all the chairman of the Cassa di Risparmio bank. Francesco took on a mountain of debt but proudly demonstrated that the Ricasoli family were back making wine in Brolio. This was in 1993 and Francesco brought in to help him Filippo Mazzei, Lapo’s son and his best friend, and Carlo Ferrini, an enologist and agronomist who set up his headquarters in Brolio.
Over the next 30 years they experimented, carried out research and replanted the vineyards with different criteria than before and based on studies on various Sangiovese varieties, the soil in the vineyards and rootstocks. The vineyards then slowly and magically returned to what they had always been: the historic cru of Chianti Classico.
The wines today are extraordinary, vintage 2019 especially, and at least since 2016 have been consistently amazing. The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio, the single vineyard Colledilà, CeniPrimo and Roncicone wines, Casalferro, made from Merlot, and the Chianti Classico Brolio Bettino are among the best wines in their respective categories in the whole area of Chianti.
I have been monitoring this evolution, this true human and winemaking adventure, for many years and would like to highlight the three wines that in recent years have impressed me the most, as has the proud determination of Francesco, which has made him the authentic Ricasoli heir and true Iron Baron.
Ricasoli 1141 Castello di Brolio
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledià 2016
97/100 - € 60
100% Sangiovese. Matured in barrels for 18 months. An intense and bright ruby-garnet color with an extraordinary aromatic, complex, refined and wrapping with profile. The bouquet has clearly distinct fruit scents of sour cherry, red currant, sweet spice, tobacco and humus. The mouthfeel is full and composed, very elegant, taut and truly splendid, with an exceptionally persistent finish. A great wine.
Ricasoli 1141 Castello di Brolio
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ceni Primo 2018
98/100 - € 60
100% Sangiovese. Matured in barrels for 18 months. An intense and bright ruby-garnet color. The aroma is complex, wrapping and ethereal, very fine, with well-defined fruit notes of marasca cherry, cherry and blackberry along with hints of sweet spice, humus and tobacco. A full-bodied, bold, rich and elegant mouthfeel which at the same time is warm with thick, widespread and velvety tannins. The finish has great persistence.
Ricasoli 1141 Castello di Brolio
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledià 2019
98/100 - € 60
100% Sangiovese. Matured in barrels for 18 months. A very intense and luminous ruby color. The ethereal aroma has scents of blood orange, cherry, raspberry and violet with hints of spice in the background. The background is composed, velvety and has great balance with perfect tannins in a very harmonious body. The finish is truly endless. A great version.
