Dettori makes a good a point

It is not very often that I totally agree with someone. And it is for this reason that I share with you an open letter that Alessandro Dettori - a young and dynamic Sardinian producer, a biodynamic pioneer and, above all, a creator of magnificent wines – sent to many associations and organizations in the wine world. While I did not ask his permission to reprint the letter, I believe that using it as this week’s Doctor Wine editorial is the best way to demonstrate all my and our support for his position which, again, I totally agree with.

“I believe what I am about to say is necessary and important for all those to Love Wine, Write about it, Teach it… and Live it. 

As some of you know, I have never liked to flaunt our work as being ‘organic’ or ‘biodynamic’. When asked, I can truthfully say that our estate is both organic and biodynamic certified but I say this only when asked.

I much prefer to talk about Agriculture, what we do, the Terroir and Craftsmanship. When I mention organic or biodynamic I am referring to a farming method and do not use it as a qualifying adjective for wine. Wine is Wine, a good wine is a Good Wine whatever method is used to produce it. It is only after this has been established that I decide whether or not to buy a good wine based on my moral and ethical convictions.

More than often I have found myself in embarrassing situations. I have discovered, for example, that at informal as well as formal tastings (those with enologists, sommeliers, restauranteurs, wine shop owners and journalists) people confuse organic with biodynamic and, what is worse, estates are presented as being organic or biodynamic when they are not at all.

Where have we professionals (producers and all) gone wrong?

I have friends and colleagues who with great conviction and skill have practiced organic and biodynamic methods for years but have opted not to seek ‘legal certification’. And they do not present themselves as being organic or biodynamic, nor do they claim to be producers of ‘natural’ wines.

When a producer presents himself as being ‘biodynamic’ or ‘organic’ (to be ‘natural’ you have to be at least organic) it means that not only is he proud of this and wants people to know but also that he is seeking some kind of economic advantage which is more than legitimate.

And what if this producer is not certified? What if not only is he not certified but does not even practice organic or biodynamic methods?

And what if this producer who is not certified and does not respect organic or biodynamic methods is presented by sales representatives as being organic?

I have personally heard producers declare they are biodynamic only because they use green manure in their vineyards.

And what happens if wine professionals (sommeliers, restauranteurs, wine shop owners and journalists) present, promote and sell the wines of this producer who claims to be organic or biodynamic but is not certified and who does not even practice biodynamic or organic farming?

As I said before: more than often I have often I have found myself in embarrassing situations. I have discovered, for example, that at informal as well as formal tastings (those with enologists, sommeliers, restauranteurs, wine shop owners and journalists) people confuse organic with biodynamic and, what is worse, estates are presented as being organic or biodynamic when they are not at all.

Now, what can we professionals (producers and all) do to avoid these embarrassing situations?

The responsibility of the producer but also of the journalist (or restauranteur or sommelier or any professional in the world of wine) is immense towards those who, with their purchase, offer us their trust and allow us to do what we do with passion.

We sought certification rather late considering we had been practicing organic and biodynamic agriculture for years. And this because I did not think I needed a third party to verify my word nor that a third party needed to guarantee my work using forms and other red tape. And this especially if the third party that issues the certification has never practiced agriculture nor, in some cases, knows anything about farming.

However, in a world where all too often cleverness embraces dishonest mediocracy, we farmers who practice organic and biodynamic agriculture with total commitment and have made this a life choice must take it upon ourselves to offer a minimum and real guarantee.

And this responsibility, for us producers, is more important than the ethical or moral choice of whether or not to be certified.

It is quite clear that the process of certification does not fully guarantee that organic or biodynamic methods are being applied properly from a quality standpoint. But right now quality is not the issue. Not yet. Today, right now, we need to talk with conviction about guarantees, the guarantee that organic and biodynamic practices are actually being respected.

Many people, too many, criticized the certification process but these outside criticisms do not matter as much as criticism from within. When the criticism comes from those who have already been certified then it becomes constructive criticism that can contribute to improving the certification process, the quality of the certification and the responsibilities of certified estates.

I have dear producer friends, ones I can define as free spirits or anarchists, who in respect of this wonderful world we live in and the people who live in it have accepted to have their estates, and thus their work, certified.

It is my hope that even more colleagues will accept certification and that more and more professionals who inform the public on wine will learn to call things with their own and proper name, taking time to ascertain what is real and what is false.

I thank you for your attention and send my best regards,

Alessandro Dettori”.