Brava Jancis

 Some of you may remember how a while ago I sharply criticized Jancis Robinson for statements she made during the Vino VIP event in Cortina. This time, on the other hand, I must say that I fully agree with something she wrote in her recent article for the Financial Times. On the subject of wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Robinson stated how the best ones were not just those from Bordeaux but that some excellent wines were also produced in Italy, like Sassicaia and San Leonardo. This was nothing new, several years ago Burton Anderson said something very similar, pointing out how certain characteristics of select Italian Cabernet wines were on the same level as those of the great Bordeaux vintages in regard to body and the quality of the tannins. Still it was very gratifying to hear Mrs. Robinson now confirm this and, for once, to be able to agree with her.

I would have added several other wines to the two outstanding ones she mentioned. Gaja’s Darmagi, for example, is an austere and often undervalued wine that gets overlooked among all the other excellent ones Angelo produces. Then there are Solaia, Ornellaia, D’Alceo, Grattamacco and Pareto from Tuscany, Montevetrano and Tasca d’Almerita’s Cabernet in the south together with Lafoa and Cor Romigberg in Alto Adige. All of these can hold their own against the Haut-Medoc Grand Cru Classé and all the other Cabernet wines from around the world, starting with California. Robinson has never been exactly kind towards Italian wines and now that she had offered us this compliment we should accept it and be both pleased and grateful