Freienfeld, a guarantee from Cortaccia

by Riccardo Viscardi 01/16/19
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Cortaccia Alto Adige montagne e vigneti

Using the name of the historic estate Freienfeld, the Cortaccia winery has for years produced an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and has now used the name again for its new Chardonnay.

A fortunate combination of events brought me back to Alto Adige where I visited the Cortaccia winery for the presentation of their new Chardonnay Freienfeld. The estate already produces one of the best Cabernet Sauvignon in the region also under the name Freienfeld. The name is that of the historic estate which is the winery’s historic nucleus as well as the cooperative’s old headquarters dating back to the beginning of the last century.

This new Chardonnay is, in reality, the “child” of Chardonnay Eberlehof that was produced in the 1990s before being dropped. It now returns as a reserve. This is a crystalline and balanced wine that fits in with the various other Alto Adige Chardonnay. To be honest, during my visit I was more impressed by a vertical tasting of the Cabernet Sauvignon and have thus decided to dedicate this article to it.

Viewed from the apple orchards below, the area of Cortaccia is extremely typical but with certain particularity: it is very vertical and thus the vineyards and various varietals are situated at different altitudes, according to a “natural” zoning carried out over the years by the wine cooperative’s members that is very clear and fascinating. The lower levels are cultivated not only with red grapes, which are planted in the best areas for the particular varietal, but also some white grapes like Gewürztraminer or Moscato Giallo. Above 450m begins the zones for Müller Thurgau, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon all with different soils. The Pinot Noir is also cultivated at a high altitude, up to 650m above sea level. The highest vineyards are those for Müller Thurgau, up to 900m.

Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva Freienfeld is made with the grapes from the best vineyards, situated at altitudes between 220-350m, some of which have sandy soils while others have gravelly clay. The wines from the different soils are blended with skill to create an authentic thoroughbred. Fermentation takes place under controlled temperature and the wines mature in both new and used barriques for around 14 months. After blending, the wine matures in large barrels before being bottled and then aged for the time necessary before going to market.

Before moving on to the reviews, I would like mention the excellent dinner offered us at the winery. Chef Jakob Haller perfectly interpreted the wines, exalting them with perfect pairings, including the best I have ever had with aGewürztraminer.

The following vintages are the ones that impressed us the most.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 1997

A medium-ruby color and an aroma that is still fresh with notes of small dark and red fruits, graphite and balsamic sensations of winter underbrush and a smoky hint. The mouthfeel is elegant with nicely harmonized tannins and a mellow progression and a persistent and authoritative finish.

93/100

€ 50

 

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2007

A bright and lively ruby color and a bouquet of balsamic notes both wintery and of mint and hints of dark spice and small dark fruit. The attack of the mouthfeel is intense and elegant and while not muscular the progression is intense with refined tannins and a salinity that enhances the very flavorful drinkability while the finish is austere.

92/100

€ 43

 

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2015

A very intense, ruby color and an intact aroma that is not only young but also complex. The bouquet has scents of yellow flowers, dark citrus, an unexpected note of saffron and then the classic ones of currant and blueberry. The mouthfeel has a nice impact and thick texture with an exciting progression, youthful yet compact tannins and a juicy, persistent and harmonious finish.

94/100

€ 35

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