Catalanesca: the volcanic soul of Cantine Olivella

by Antonella Amodio 12/02/22
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Cantine Olivella Catalanesca del Monte Somma Kata e Summa

An ancient grape variety found only on the northern slope of Vesuvius: the Catalanesca. A winery capable of interpreting it at its best: Cantine Olivella.

It's up to us that a wine can bewitch. It also goes without saying that that wine is the result of unique factors, such as the territory, the environment, the man and, last but not least, the grape variety, which in this case is original, a local biotype found nowhere else but in that handkerchief of land. I am talking about Catalanesca. If you think that these grapes climb the mountainous part of Vesuvius, in the National Park, but only on the northern slope of the volcano, the one that looks northwest to be clear, and that does not lose sight of the Gulf of Naples, that is, on Mount Somma, between Somma Vesuviana and Terzigno, touching the municipalities of Sant'Anastasia, Ottaviano and Pollena Trocchia. 

It apparently came to these lands from Catalonia, by Alfonso I of Aragon in the 15th century, as a gift of love, taking root immediately in these fertile volcanic soils. Vesuvian farmers made wine from it in the imposing cellars of the masserie, where it is still possible to find presses dating back to the 1600s. Some of the grapes were used as table grapes because of the sweetness of the fruit. 

Since 2006 it has been officially added to the list of wine grapes in the National Register of Vine Varieties, and in 2011 the resulting wine takes on the name "Catalanesca del Monte Somma Igp." 

A grape from the complex heritage of Vesuvius, which Cantine Olivella grows free-range together with Caprettone, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso, in a total of 12 hectares, in Sant'Anastasia, in the strip of land of Monte Somma, in that territory formed following the Plinian eruption of 79 AD, between 300 and 650 meters a.s.l. characterized by lavas and pyroclastic deposits interspersed with those of marine origin (black sands and lapilli), with the access roads to the vineyards being in Vesuvian basalt, built in the 1800s by the Bourbons. 

Cantine Olivella is an example of technological-productive innovation through research, development, protection of biodiversity and traditions. The Catalanesca grape is bush-trained, ripens late compared to other varieties, has a sparse bunch, round berries and a thick, crisp, golden skin. What comes out of it is truly an extraordinary wine in terms of characteristics and longevity, as Katà demonstrates, reaching peaks of excellence with the Summa label, as Daniele Cernilli and I ascertained in the vertical tasting organized in the very vineyard of origin of Cantina Olivella, among glimpses of the sea and breathtaking views of the Cognoli of Monte Somma.  

Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Katà 2017

92/100 - € 13,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio. Colore giallo paglia, molto luminoso. Naso con ricordi di torrefazione, zafferano, bergamotto ed erbe di montagna. Dinamico in bocca, con un sorso deciso, sapido, fresco e di grandissima persistenza.


Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Katà 2018

90/100 - € 13,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio. Paglierino scarico. Al naso c’è ampiezza di profumi: mela golden, capperi, liquirizia, pepe nero e macchia mediterranea. Sorso salino, saldo, fresco e con un finale appagante. 

 

Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Katà 2019

93/100 - €13,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio. Giallo paglierino luminoso. Iniziali profumi di agrumi, ginestra e menta. In seconda battuta una decisa striatura balsamica. Sapore teso, salino, elegante e di notevole persistenza.

 

Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Katà 2020

91/100 - € 13,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio. Giallo paglia, brillante. Note di resina, chiodi di garofano e accenno di frutta gialla. Bocca fresca, scorrevole e persistente. 

 

Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Katà 2021

93/100 - € 13,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio. Giallo paglierino. Olfatto di susina gialla, mandorla fresca, mentuccia e rosmarino. Sapore teso, con acidità e sapidità in primo piano. Stupisce la grande freschezza. Chiude con una tenue nota affumicata.

 

Cantina Olivella
Catalanesca del Monte Somma Summa 2021

94/100 - € 30,00

100% Catalanesca. Acciaio inox 50% e anfora 50%. Giallo paglierino brillante. Evidenti profumi di agrumi, mela renetta, mandorla, pesca gialla e foglia di pomodoro. Macchia mediterranea presente in seconda battuta. Piena la corrispondenza al gusto. Salino, armonico e fresco. 

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Logo Cantine Olivella
11/19/19 Redazione




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