Italiano
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento Col d’Orcia
A Brunello that made history in Montalcino, a reference point for anyone who wants to comprehend this appellation.
There are many wines in Italy that struck a new course for an appellation and then became and remain an absolute reference point for the style and interpretation of that area. Brunello Riserva Poggio al Vento Col d’Orcia is one of those rare examples.
What is surprising is that it has not created a cult among wine lovers who appear to be distracted by passing “phenomena” and fads. The Col d’Orcia estate is, in part, to blame and this is a sad thing for me. Its “fault” is the estate’s sobriety that probably derives from the fact that it is owned and run by Piedmont natives, and thus reserved people by nature, who are not inclined to seek the attention nor stage redundant and self-celebratory events. 
They take their work seriously and maintain a low profile, preferring to let others talk about them and appreciate their product.
Poggio al Vento was born in 1982 thanks Edoardo Virano, the estate’s general manager for several decades, who had the inspired intuition to make a Brunello using grapes from a single vineyard and not letting it reach the market until seven years after harvest, long maturation in large barrels and aging two years in the bottle. At the time, there was only one other Brunello that had the name of the vineyard in the label (La Casa di Caparzo).
Poggio al Vento is situated just below the hamlet of Sant’Angelo in Colle, sitting at an altitude between 250 and 350m above sea level with a mostly chalky soil with layers of tuff stone. This area is in the upper southern side of Montalcino.
They offered us a vertical tasting beginning with vintage 1990 and finishing with 2010. Since 1999, production has been supervised by Pablo Harri, an enologist very tied to the history of Poggio al Vento. The other wines in the tasting were made by Mario Oliviero. The vineyard is cultivated by agronomist Guliano Dragoni, who has always worked at the estate. The clones in the vineyards are from estate cuttings that have also been used to create ancient historic Sangiovese varieties and others that risked extinction, a project very dear to estate owner Francesco Marone Cinzano.
One last note: in the vineyard’s 40 years, only 18 vintages have been bottled as Poggio al Vento.
Two distinct characteristics emerged from the vertical tasting. Great Montalcino wines have a stable color that is never orange and a bouquet that long maintains its fruity and floral scents without declining into notes of leaves, leather and carob. Furthermore, what is fundamental about Sangiovese is that the acidity and salinity are more important than the tannins.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1990
99/100 - € 220
A great vintage confirmed by this magnificent over-30-year old wine.
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
A ruby color leaning slightly towards garnet. A clear and intense aroma that still has traces of marasca cherry along with notes of light and dark spices with a hint of licorice. The mouthfeel is thick and elegant with relaxed tannins and an intact salinity that surprisingly allows for a majestic and elegant progression. The aftertaste is flavorful, intact and very persistent.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1995
98/100 - € 210
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
A nicely intact and bright ruby color. The intense bouquet has dark flora. Notes followed by those of marasca and other cherries, with a balsamic touch and abundant notes of light spice and some blackberry. The compact and elegant mouthfeel has settled and refined tannins. The progression is still fresh and elegant even if mixed with a Montalcino creaminess. The intense and persistent finish has a very amplified floral element.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1999
96/100 - € 135
A very good year that was a bit hot in the summer which is evident in the tannins. The first vintage from Paolo Harri.
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
A dark ruby color with a slightly garnet edge. The bouquet has dark fruity notes that are almost jammy followed by scents of dark spice and a touch of tobacco. The mouthfeel is compact and almost muscular with crispy tannins that contrast with the thick body but settle down in the progression. The aftertaste is flavorful, bold and persistent.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 2004
98/100 - € 150
A cool year very favorable for the southern side of Montalcino distinguished by the acidity and elegance.
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
A very beautiful, compact and intense ruby color. The aroma is intriguing with the freshness and precision of its scents of red fruit like cherry, white and yellow spice and green peppercorn. There are also notes of dark flowers. The thick mouthfeel is flavorful with an elegant progression that leans on the salinity while the tannins are relaxed. The finish is excellent thanks to its aromatic consistency and elegance and excellent persistence. An example of southern Brunello elegance.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 2006
99/100 - € 135
This rivals the 1990 and is one of the world’s great wines. This was a balanced year with the summer heat making it the alter ego of 2004 with which it shared the praise of critics. Personally, I prefer the 2006 that for me has more Montalcino pathos.
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
A dark, ruby color. The intense and intriguing bouquet has complex notes between those of marasca cherry, blackberry and sour cherry followed by scents of dark spice and summer underbrush. The mouthfeel is tight and elegant at the same time, with tannins that are still young and balanced while the salinity is elegant. The progression is bold and balanced with a juicy and flavorful aftertaste that has an incredible persistence. A very great wine.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 2007
95/100 - € 130
A difficult year for Montalcino, praised by the Anglo-Saxon press that prefers hot years. An excellent Poggio al Vento that maintained the characteristics of the year without being subjected to its excesses.
Made from Sangiovese grapes, matured for four years in Allier and Slavonian oak barrels and aged for two years in the bottle.
An intense and nicely defined ruby color. The aroma is classic with its notes of dark blackberry and mulberry, marasca cherry and a touch of kirsch cherry with a hint of sour cherry jam. The mouthfeel is compact and muscular without excessive tannins and the progression is juicy and flavorful as is the aftertaste, where sensations of ripe fruit return. An excellent version.
