Italiano
Vin Santo Brolio: a vertiginous vertical tasting
This vertical tasting is the proof that timeless wines do exist, those that after close to a century (you read right) can still offer extraordinary sensations. Wines like this legendary Vin Santo del Chianti Classico from Castello di Brolio. The vintages that really stood out were 1923, 1929, 1847, 1955, 1960 and 1983.
Several years ago at the Castello di Brolio winery, in Gaiole in Chianti, Francesco Ricasoli decided to stage the last possible vertical tasting of his Vin Santo. This is a truly legendary wine and I was able to exclusively taste it for Italy together with my colleague Monica Larner, who collaborates with Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate for Italian wines.
Some of the vintages, the oldest, are no longer available because the last remaining bottles have been opened and so this made the tasting truly interesting. First some technical information.
Vin Santo Brolio is made mostly from Malvasia del Chianti (90-92% plus 5% Trebbiano Toscano and 2-5% Sangiovese). The grapes are usually picked well into the harvest season, to ensure a higher sugar content, after which they are selected and laid out to dry for around three months. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel (with pied de cuve) and then in kegs, Malolactic fermentation generally takes place but it is never induced nor facilitated in any way. The wine then matures in kegs for around 7-8 years.
The soil in the vineyards is recent alluvial and thus drains well while remaining fresh, which allows the grapes to maintain a nice level of acidity even once they have ripened.
The following are the notes made at the tasting, to which we have added those for vintage 2001, which are currently available retail.
2011 – A lively topaz color. Aromas of nuts like almonds, hazelnuts and dry figs. Warm and sweet taste, enveloping and persistent finish with notes of nuts again. (95/100)
2009 – A bright topaz color, scents of vanilla and ethereal ones, notes of toasted almond, intense and penetrating. A sweet flavor, warm, saline and full with an excellent persistence in the finish. (90/100).
2007 – A bold topaz color and an intense and ethereal nose with scents of dried fruit preserved in spirits and hints of vanilla. A more alcoholic flavor, light oxidative notes, full, very warm, saline slightly tannic and very persistant. (88/100).
2004 – A clear, amber color, ethereal bouquet, evolved, complex, slightly smoky, with a note of dried fruit preserved in spirits, penetrating. A warm mouthfeel, saline, juicy, nicely upheld by the acidity. Composed and very long. (93/100).
2003 – An intense amber color. Scents of withered dates, apricot jam, almost tropical notes, dried fruit and balsamic. A full flavor, very warm, a tad bitter, saline, juicy and persistent, the very hot year is evident. (92/100).
2002 – Bright amber. A more composed aroma, delicate, a tad oxidative, hints of mushroom, perhaps some botrytis and an evident acidity. The body is not overwhelming, agile, a little simple with a medium persistence. (86/100).
1998 – An intense amber color with brick reflections. An ethereal nose, penetrating, notes of cinchona, medicinal herbs, dried fruit preserved in spirits. A complex flavor, pull, slightly sweet, warm, rich and very persistent. (94/100).
1995 – An intense topaz color and an evolved bouquet with light oxidative notes, somewhat volatile, a very saline mouthfeel, full, composed, not enormous, agile and subtle. (88/100).
1994 – An intense amber color and an aroma in which the oxidative notes are more evident, slightly volatile, more rustic. Excellent mouthfeel, saline, composed, warm and persistent. (89/100).
1990 – An intense and bold amber color, wrapping aroma with scents of dried fruit, dates, oxidative notes, ethereal and slightly volatile. A complex mouthfeel, full, warm, rich, saline and composed, supported by a nice acidity, very persistent. (89/100).
1988- A distinct amber color, intense bouquet, touch of dried fig, dates, ethereal notes, wrapping and volatile. A complex mouthfeel, saline, agile, nice acidity, elegant, warm yet balanced, very long. (90/100).
1985 – Intense amber color, ethereal bouquet, intact, dried fruit preserved in spirits, classic and very typical. A warm, saline mouthfeel, full body, imposing but not heavy and not too oxidative, a very long finish. (94/100).
1983 – An intense amber color, a surprisingly intact nose, ethereal, dried fig, dates, dried fruit preserved in alcohol, bitter candied citrus and cacao. A composed mouthfeel, saline, full bodied, very warm yet not heavy and a slightly bitter finish. A great version. (97/100).
1982 – A distinct amber color, scents of cacao in an ethereal bouquet, slightly volatile, penetrating, with a nice complexity and just a tad oxidative. A saline, very warm mouthfeel, dry and bold, a little diluted in the finish, intact. (96/100).
1980 – A lively amber color, ethereal bouquet, just a tad volatile, penetrating, cacao, dried fruit preserved in spirits, subtle, acidic, warm, saline. A little simpler yet excellent. (95/100).
1978 – A lively amber color, limpid, wrapping aroma, ethereal, typical, slightly volatile with scents of cacao. A composed mouthfeel but a little diluted in the finish. (93/100).
1975 – A bright amber color and a more medicinal nose, not that clear, ethereal, volatile. Warm mouthfeel, diluted, a bit simple. (86/100).
1973 –A clear amber color, scents of cacao, a tad volatile to the nose, old wood, not too clear. Saline mouthfeel, subtle and bitter. (87/100).
1966 – Lively amber color, wrapping nose, cacao, light balsamic notes, just a little volatile, dried medicinal herbs. Agile mouthfeel, excellent acidity, intact, subtle yet long finish. (95/100).
1964 – A dark amber color, a not-too-distinct bouquet, ethereal, penetrating, dense, rich, concentrated, bitter citrus. (86/100).
1960 – A lively amber color, limpid, scents of cacao, notes of dried medicinal herbs, direct fruit preserved in spirits, intact, less volatile, bitter orange, candied fruits. Slightly sweet to the mouth, warm, very persistent. (97/100).
1959 – Lively amber color, penetrating scents of cacao, wrapping, ethereal and slightly to the nose. Saline mouthfeel, agile, citrusy, bitter and subtle. (93/100).1955 – Lively and intense amber color, wrapping scents of cacao, candied fruits, bitter citrus and baked goods create an extraordinarily complex yet intact bouquet. Fu mouthfeel, rich, alcoholic, slight sweet with an endless persistence. A very great wine.
1949 – An intense topaz, slightly clouded color. Intense and wrapping aroma, complex, slightly volatile. Saline mouthfeel, composed and not enormous, warm, very persistent and harmonious. (95/100).
1947 – Lively amber color, wrapping nose, scents of cacao, a tad volatile, balsamic. Saline mouthfeel. Agile, even youthful, bitter citrus, full, very long, truly amazing how it holds up. (97/100).
1943 – Intense and lively amber color, wrapping and complex aroma, just a little volatile and penetrating with a note of cacao. Bitter flavor, evolved and very persistent. (90/100).1941 – Intense topaz color, the nose is a bot evolved and oxidative. Saline mouthfeel, warm, evolved, earthy and rustic. (85/100).
1929 – Bright topaz color, intense and wrapping bouquet, incredibly intact, complex, scents of cacao and balsamic notes. Saline mouthfeel, full, bitter citrus, very long, surprising how it holds up. (97/100).
1924 –Bright topaz color, intense aroma, wrapping, ethereal, medicinal herbs preserved in spirits, very dry. (89/100).
1923 – An intense, amber color, wrapping aroma, evolved, complex, distinct oxidative notes, dried flowers. Saline mouthfeel, incredibly fresh, warm, rich, full, very long and surprising how it has stood the test of time. A very great wine. (98/100).
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