Italiano
Ugolaia Lisini, an unknown legend
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia from Lisini is a top-quality wine that is too often, and unjustly, “forgotten”.
There are estates that exploit social media, trends and “knowing how to move” creating an image that goes beyond their true value. Then there are other estates that with their wines have made and continue to enhance the legends and reputations of certain areas even if they lack the glamor so much admired by trendy wine lovers.
The Lisini estate in Montalcino is an example of the second case. One of the founders of producers’ association, which last year marked its 50th anniversary, was the legendary Elia Lisini, a formidable woman who I had the fortunate to get to known during my first visits to Montalcino, back in 1998. She was a woman of great culture and class and while she spoke of her Brunello with affection, she preferred to talk about her estate and how it has evolved. The estate is situated in one of the best cru in Montalcino, in theclassic area of Sesta, near the dirt road that runs from Castelnuovo dell’Abate towards Sant’Angelo in Colle, and it has one of vineyards with the best soil and exposures in the whole appellation: Ugolaia.
Elina’s reserve and a certain amount of “confusion” within her family following her death resulted in the estate not getting the recognition it deserved during the height of the media frenzy over Montalcino. However, the wines created by winemaker Franco Bernabei and enologist Filippo Paoletti, always present at the estate, were always very good while the Ugolaia cru – made only in the better years – has always been a reference point for the whole appellation. The future of the estate, now that the transition problems have been resolved, is in the hands of Ludovica Lisini, the young and charming heir of this noble family.
When I received an invitation from Ludovica to take part in an unspecified vertical tasting I did not have to think twice. This also because Elina Lisini was making Brunello even before the producers’ association was founded and thus her estate is part of Montalcino’s history, especially for this zone where many had vineyards but very few made their own wines.
When I arrived in Montalcino I discovered that the estate’s main house had been wonderfully restructured with the estate’s historic production totally inventoried and ordered on shelves in an air-conditioned location. It was like entering a museum but one with a living atmosphere that brought back many memories, including those of the wines I had tasted so many years ago.
It makes little sense to talk about the vintages that are over 40 years old, which represent examples of almost prehistoric winemaking, because they are impossible to find, However, what I can say is that the Brunello Riserva 1975 was in incredible form, still intact and sharp, while those from the first hot years to hit Montalcino, above all 1985, were consistent. Two wines deeply different but still intact, The Ugolaia 2009, however, was not rated because it is practically impossible to find in Italy but it was responsible for introducing a new generation to the estate now run by Ludovica. Should you have the opportunity to try it, let me know what you think.
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 1990
99/100
A perfect year that is still reaping success. The color is a classic ruby while the aroma is still incredibly young with its fruity notes of cherry and Marasca cherry while bottle aging has brought out those of medicinal herbs and a balsamic sensation of Mediterranean underbrush, followed by blond tobacco and some hints of cinchona. The mouthfeel is thick allowing for a bold yet elegant progression thanks to refined tannins and a controlled acidity. The finish is plush.
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 1995
95/100
The growing season this year was complex with a slow ripening phase and those who had the courage to wait made the right decision. Lisini in this case also benefitted from its cru having a climate that allowed the grapes to reach full maturity. The wine has a bright, ruby color that is slightly garnet and the bouquet still has scents of red fruit with some balsamic and slightly winterish notes of underbrush underscoring the aroma’s complexity. The mouthfeel excellently and skillfully unites boldness, salinity and the tannins, creating a very flavorful and persistent finish. A very satisfying wine.
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2004
99/100
Another masterpiece that when it came out shared the recognition for being the best Brunello di Montalcino with the Riserva from Biondi Santi. I, personally, prefer the Ugolaia for its rich flavor and slightly southern accent that made it juicier. The classic ruby color is still gorgeous and the intense and clear aromas are of red and dark fruits, medicinal herbs with a smoky touch and hints of tobacco and autumn underbrush. The mouthfeel is still that of a champion, intensely juicy and acidic with settled and relaxed tannins. A wine that is still very young.
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2010
97/100
100% Sangiovese grapes. It matures in barrels made with woods. Garnet ruby color. On the nose is intense with aromas of underbrush, morello, cinchona and citrus. very intense. On the mouth is powerful and elegant thanks to the strong but elegant tannin. A progressive wine with a thick body and a compact and complex finish. A great version of this great classic wine from the area of Sesta.
Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2012
97/100
100% Sangiovese grapes. Aged in tonneau and traditional cask for 48 months. Very fascinating ruby colour with garnet hues. Incredibly complex and defined nose of sour cherry, dark cherry and blackberry followed by a smoky hint and a subtle yellow spice. Wonderful palate; balanced and austere showing good weight and wonderfully long and elegant finish of pink salt.
