Italiano
Sicily in a glass: Rosso del Conte
An enthralling wine with significant structure, character and personality that reflects its territorial origin.
There are very few Italian estates that can boast having passed down territorial tradition while at the same time fostering the evolution of territory’s tradition over the past 40 years. The estate headed by Lucio Tasca, up until the past decade, has the merit of having helped lead Sicily from being an exporter of low-cost wine used for blending towards a bright future for world winemaking. The estate not only helped set the course but was one of the progenitors of three revolutions that have taken place in Sicily in recent decades.
The estate is now in the hands of Alberto Tasca who carries on the visionary and brilliant course set by his father with a series of very targeted and top-quality acquisitions and projects. The estate’s “declaration” is important to comprehend how the family views its role in Sicilian winemaking: “Vineyards safeguarded by the Tasca d’Almerita family”.
This vertical tasting focuses of Rosso del Conte, a key wine in the world of Italian wine, which was the first Sicilian wine made from grapes from a single vineyard: San Lucio that was planted in 1959 with head-trained bush vines of Nero d’Avola and Perricone. The vineyard is around seven hectares in size and is situated at an altitude of 480m above sea level, with a south-southeast exposure. The loamy sand soil has a brown-yellow color and is in part chalk with some gravel. The first vintage of Rosso del Conte was 1970 but we can say that its definitive version began with vintage 1973.
Starting with vintage 2010, a Riserva del Conte has been available, a wine that has its roots in that wine of the 1970s but uses 500l oak barrels for maturing while the blend is 60% Perricone and 40% Nero d’Avola. Two vintages are on the market, 2010 and 2016, and despite the admirable intent of the project to return to tradition, I don’t think the result is noticeably better than the vintage wines.
It should not be forgotten that Chardonnay and Vigna San Francesco Cabernet Sauvignon are still produced at the Regaleali estate, which in the 1990s broke into foreign markets and brought the Sicilian style and territory to the attention of the international press. Then there are the projects on the islands of Mozia, with Grillo, and Salina, with Malvasia as well as the Tascante winery on Etna. All produce wines of very great quality that totally reflect their territory.
The wines for this vertical tasting were selected from cooler years and not those best from evaluating the estate: the results are wonderful.
Rosso del Conte 1983
96/100 – Out of stock
90% Nero d’Avola and 10% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured for over 26 months in 30-60hl oak barrels,
A lively ruby color. The bouquet initially has scents of prune and carob to then open to spice and balsamic notes and very intriguing ones of incense. The mouthfeel is elegant, lively, with settled tannins but a striking freshness, an intact and vibrant wine that still has a flavorful finish after almost 40 years. Hurray.
Rosso del Conte 1998
92/100 - € 120
60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured for 24 months in barriques and medium-size other barrels.
A bright ruby color. The aroma is of dark spice, with balsamic notes of eucalyptus, earthy hints of autumn underbrush coffee and blond orange. The mouthfeel is quite sharp with tannins that are still lively.
Rosso del Conte 2001
92/100 - € 100
60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured for over 24 months in barriques and other barrels.
A controversial vintage. An intense ruby color with an austere nose that slowly opens to notes of kumquat, dark fruit and scents of coffee. The mouthfeel is compact, almost muscular and nervous with excellent and very polished tannins. The progression is juicy, broad, with tannins that leave their mark sip after sip towards an intense finish.
Rosso del Conte 2006
95/100 - € 40
60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured in barriques and other barrels, fermented in stainless steel vats and, for the first time, under controlled temperatures.
An intense ruby color. An intriguing bouquet of blood orange, dark floral notes, blackberry, blueberry and a note of yellow spice. The compact and elegant mouthfeel nicely is upheld by the tannins that help the wine’s drinkability and add sharpness to the flavor and elegance to the progression. The aftertaste has great harmony and persistence.
Sicilia Contea di Sclafani Rosso del Conte 2010
95/100 - € 40
60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured for at least 24 months in barriques and other medium-size barrels.
An intense ruby color. A clear and intense bouquet with balsamic eucalyptus notes and those of red flowers, dark fruit and a hint of dark spice as well as blood orange. A dense yet elegant and flowing mouthfeel with distinct yet excellent tannins. The progression is engaging and the finish austere, balanced and very persistent. An excellent version.
Sicilia Contea di Sclafani Rosso del Conte 2016
95/100 - € 45,00
53% Nero d’Avola and 47% Perricone from the old San Lucio vineyard. Matured for 18 months in new barriques.
An intense, bright and intact ruby color. The clear aroma of red fruit has hints of dark spice, red prune and a smoky hint. The dense mouthfeel has young but excellent tannins. The lovely and tasty progression has an austere and expressive character that distinguishes the soul of this wine. The intense finish is persistent and fresh.
