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A great classic: Riserva La Selvanella Melini
A vertical tasting of an iconic Chianti Classico from the La Selvanella vineyard, in the Lucarelli district of Radda. The name of the cru was the first to be mentioned on the label of a Chianti Classico, way back in 1969.
Iconic and elegant, La Selvanella Riserva from the Melini winery, a brand in the Gruppo Italiano Vini, is a red wine made from grapes from a single vineyard, among the first in the history of Italian winemaking. Already with its first vintage, 1969, the name of its specific vineyard was indicated on the wine’s label, an indication that the area’s potential was already evident and highlighting it would enhance its uniqueness.
La Selvanella describes one of the most authentic micro-areas in Chianti, it is an avant-garde wine and it was the first cru in Tuscany and one of the first in Italy. During the Taormina Gourmet event, Daniele Cernilli and Alessandro Zanette, the enologist and director of La Selvanella, led a well-attended master class during which participants were able to travel through time thanks to a vertical tasting of ten vintages: 1971-1986-1990-1995-1997-2004-2006-2013-2015-2016.
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The estate is situated in the municipality of Radda, in the heart of Chianti Classico, near Panzano, and comprises 138 hectares, of which 50.5 hectares are vineyards of Sangiovese. The mix between terroir, altitude (the vineyards rise as high as 600m and more above sea level) and the southwest exposure create a lovely combination and ideally demacates a territory suited to produce top quality wines with a distinct identity. The single vineyard is spectacular, one of the largest registered in Chianti as a cru, and it expands around a hill, which means that, thanks to the different exposures of the same estate, year by year they can select the area that best interprets it.
The feature that perhaps best characterizes the estate is the diversity of its soils, which are dominated by albarese up to 450m, after which the chalky marl gives way to galestro, a rocky schistous soil, extremely poor in organic substances but rich in microelements and which drains easily. The Sangiovese is not a specific clone and the vines are the result of massal selection begun already in the 1970s from old vines already present in the estate and that still produce grapes, in three areas of the vineyard, from vines that are over 50 years old.
As Alessandro Zanette explained: “La Selvanella is not an ad personam wine, it is a cru that expresses its territory of origin, while the enologist is an almost marginal figure, as all those who have made the wine since Nunzio Capurso up to me know. The style has always been the same for over 50 years. The territory, by itself, already expresses itself at its best with a very high potential. The human factor does play a role by interpreting the territory in the purest way possible. The winemaking methods respect tradition and are not too sophisticated. The wine matures slowly, three years in 120hl French oak barrels, with 10cm-wide staves, and then ages a year in the bottle, which all takes place in a reducing and non-oxidizing environment. Around 60,000 bottles are produced a year. Vintage 2006 is my favorite”.
La Selvanella is a flavorful and balanced wine with a long lifespan in which the tannins dominate over the acidity. There are evident floral notes, Mediterranean underbrush, medicinal and balsamic herbs, in particular. Of all the vintages, the unforgettable 2006 was considered the best of the last decade. It is still young and balanced, in constant evolution. Right up there with it is the 1986, a year when temperatures were lower than usual and the one in which La Selvanella became famous, which was surprising because there were higher expectations for the ’85. The aromas are more evolved than the 1971, the mouth is intact. Vintage 2016 is the latest to reach the market, its nose is intense, with floral aromas and a balsamic hint. At present, 2017 is aging in the bottle.
“A good critic is one with foresight – Daniele Cernilli concluded – his job is not to say what he likes at that moment because those who buy the wine will not do so right away and would prefer to have an idea of what a wine will become”.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 1971
95/100 – no longer available retail.
Made from Sangiovese. Matured for three years in (120hl) French oak barrels. A very intense garnet color. Elegant nose with notes of licorice and orange peel. The fresh mouthfeel is upheld by a surprising acidic backbone that is still lively. Long finish.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 1986
(97/100) - no longer available retail
Sangiovese grapes. Matured three years in large French-oak barrels. An intense, garnet color. Evolved scents of ripe jam, licorice, cinchona and other oriental spices, leaning towards laurel. The mouthfeel is harmonious, round and elegant. The persistent finish ends on a balsamic note.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 1995
96/100 – no longer available retail
Made from Sangiovese grapes. Matured three years in large French-oak barrels. Garnet color. A full and intense fruity bouquet, rich and juicy, still young, with notes of underbrush and resin. The mouthfeel is structured, the tannins only slightly subdued. Persistent finish.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2006
96/100 - € 20,00
Made from Sangiovese grapes. Matured three years in large French-oak barrels. A dark, ruby color with garnet reflections. The bouquet has mineral and spice notes. The velvety mouthfeel is wrapping and elegant, upheld by an excellent acidic vein. The finish has a formidable persistence.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2013
96/100 - € 20,00
100% Sangiovese grapes. Matures 3 years in French oak barrels. Ruby red color with garnet hues. Complex and very typical aromas of black cherries, violets, cardamom and smoky hints. Balanced. Great body, agile and elegant, savory and very persistent.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2015
95/100 - € 20,00
100% Sangiovese grapes. Matures 3 years in French oak barrels. Intense garnet ruby red color. Elegant and typical aromas, very elegant and neat. Classic notes of black cherry and violets, then hints of cocoa and chinchona. Tense in the mouth, austere, thick and youthful tannins. Aristocratic palate, great acidity to support the body. Great length in the finish.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2016
96/100 - € 22,00
100% Sangiovese grapes. Matures 3 years in big barrels. Intense garnet ruby red color. Complex, austere and classic notes of violets, black cherries, hints of spices and dark tobacco. Tense, elegant and agile taste, Rich and agile taste, neat, great body, nicely sustained by its acidity. Smooth and thick tannins for an aristocratic and very typical profile. Great persistence in the finish.
