Coda di Volpe and Pallagrello bianco, two unusual wines from Campania

by Editorial Staff 06/28/22
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Coda di Volpe

Two ancient varieties, initially confused as unique, offer different nuances all to be discovered.

Coda di Volpe is an ancient variety from Campania whose name comes from the fact that the rather curved apical fold of the cluster reminds some people of a fox's tail. Two types were produced, both in the province of Benevento: the first in the Sannio area and the second in Taburno. In the Sannio area, Coda di Volpe is the most important grape variety for a still, dry wine, which is also produced in a sweet sparkling version and as a dessert wine from slightly dried grapes. Coda di Volpe del Taburno is a dry, still wine made from at least 85 percent of the grape variety of the same name, or vinified as a good drinking sparkling wine, sometimes with the addition of Falanghina. In recent years this grape variety has also experienced growing success in Irpinia, thanks to dry wines with strong acidity and a nervous and pleasantly rustic structure. It is also grown on the slopes of Vesuvius and in the Campi Flegrei. 

Pallagrello bianco has long been confused with Coda di Volpe (but as early as 1876 Froio distinguished between them), because of the once frequent habit of calling different grapes by similar names. Scarcely widespread, it has recently been rediscovered and has been certified as an indigenous grape in its own right. Mainly widespread in the Caserta area, it has a cylindrical, small bunch, rounded green-yellow berry, very vigorous and abundant production. 

Today we present Fontanavecchia's Coda di Volpe and Il Verro's Pallagrello Bianco Verginiano.

The Fontanavecchia winery is located in Torrecuso, west of Benevento. Libero Rillo, owner of this winery, is one of the "daddies" of Falanghina del Sannio, a wine he feels strongly about and often manages to make to great effect, alongside some versions of Aglianico del Taburno Riserva. Coda di Volpe is his everyday wine.

Il Verro is a tiny winery near Pontelatone, home of Casavecchia, an ancient but recently rediscovered grape variety. We are north of Caserta, not far from the Colline Caiatine, and it is here that Cesare Avenia has decided to make his wines using obsolete, almost disappeared grapes such as Casavecchia, Pallagrello nero and even the very rare Coda di pecora, which he produces practically only. 
 

Sannio Coda di Volpe 2020 Fontanavecchia

91/100 - € 12,00 

100% Coda di Volpe grapes. Stainless steel only. Straw yellow color. Aromas of sage, yellow citrus and white peach. Tense, agile and savory taste. Long and persistent finish.

 

 

Terre del Volturno Pallagrello Bianco Verginiano 2020 Il Verro

91/100 - € 15,00 

100% Pallagrello Bianco grapes. Stainless steel only. Bright straw yellow color. Aromas of white peach, plums, mountain herbs, banana, hints of tomato lefs. Fresh taste, dynamic and good structure. Long and savory finish.
 

 

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