The many souls of Tuscan Sangiovese

Let's take an ideal route from west to east, from the warmer, maritime climate zone to the cooler, more continental climate zone, from Maremma to Montepulciano via Montalcino. So we begin with the red from Poggio Argentiera, a winery that is in the hands of the very young Giovanni Frascolla, a "son of art" since his parents are the owners of the Tua Rita winery. The past history of this farm is well known: it is the old Podere Adua, dating back to the early 1900s. Since 2014, the management of the 22 hectares of vineyards, all included in the Morellino di Scansano DOC, has passed to a company headed by Tua Rita. Scattered plots in Maremma, from the coast to the high hills; old vines often saved from grubbing up and cultivated with respect. A crisp, well-delineated style of wines, with full relevance to the area of origin.

We move a little further northeast to land at Fattoria delle Pupille, in Località Piagge del Maiano, also in the province of Grosseto. Owned by Elisabetta Geppetti, who today shares the leadership with her children Clara and Ettore. At a very young age, Elisabetta began to take charge of the small family business and over the years has enlarged it, but above all she has drawn attention to Scansano and Morellino as no one had ever managed to do before. The Supertuscan Saffredi and the Sangiovese Poggio Valente are wines of extraordinary quality, but the rest of the production is also taken care of down to the smallest detail, and young Ettore is showing that he has a winemaker's hand of international caliber.

We head inland to land in Montalcino, where we consider the winery that has contributed most to the success of the appellation: Banfi. Some will turn up their noses, but it is undeniable that without the Mariani family the history of Brunello di Montalcino would have been different and the type would not have achieved the notoriety that has taken it to the top of international appellations. What is striking about this winery is the production rigor. All the wines are very well executed and in their respective categories always rank among the best. 

Let's close in the coolest and most inland area: Montepulciano, where we come across Fattoria Svetoni, founded in the 19th century, a classic "Leopoldine" farm that now covers 26 hectares, 23 of which are planted with vines, in organic conversion. After several changes of ownership, the 18th-century villa dominating the estate has been transformed into a luxurious relais in perfect Tuscan style with a swimming pool, spa and the excellent Osmosi restaurant.