Italiano
In Apulia, red is almost black
In the "heel" of Italy there are mainly two grapes that rule: Primitivo, essentially in the province of Taranto, and Negroamaro in the province of Lecce.
The two queen red grapes of Tarantino and Salento have nothing to do with each other: Primitivo is a grape genetically identical to California's Zinfandel, and they both originated in Croatia (where this species is known as Crljenak Kaštelanski), as studies by geneticist Carole Meredith, at the University of California, Davis, have shown. It is unclear from where and when it arrived in Apulia, but in all likelihood the ancient Falerno is derived from it; its setting in the region is therefore very ancient.
Negroamaro was probably introduced to the Ionian arc by the Greeks, so it is more southern. Of abundant and consistent production, it is well adapted to arid soils and hot climates, and 80 percent of Apulia's reds and rosés see a considerable percentage of Negroamaro in their blend.
The path now taken by Apulian viticulture, aimed at the redevelopment of its wines once marketed in bulk and largely destined for blending, yields very interesting results for both grapes, in the two Primitivo DOCs, Manduria and Gioia del Colle, and in all the southern DOCs where Negroamaro reigns instead, often in blends with Malvasia nera.
Both are the protagonists of some of the region's most important wines, and versions "for all budgets" can be found. We present four of them, on a journey from south of Bari to Salice Salentino, in the Lecce area.
The first winery we encounter is more than a hundred years old, but the Coppi family's ownership dates back to 1979, when Antonio Coppi, who had worked as a winemaker in the previous management, bought the company and began to transform it. Today it is one of the most important in the Gioia del Colle area, offering a wide range based mainly on traditional varieties.
Arriving in Manduria, we find a "foreigner" (he is from Abruzzo) for whom the passion for wine and love for the Salento area have merged in this wine project. He is the well-known journalist Bruno Vespa, who also involved his sons Federico and Alessandro in this adventure. A very young reality that hinges its production on the enhancement of the Primitivo grape itself.
Also in Manduria we find Felline, whose name derives from that of an ancient town in the area. It has been one of the protagonists in the revival of local grape varieties, Primitivo in primis, with the Accademia dei Racemi project. The winery is large and structured, and production embraces a considerable amount of wines, covering practically all types, always centered on native grape varieties.
Finally, we arrive near Salice Salentino, where Vitantonio Seracca Guerrieri and his wife Lina Memmo, the last heir of the ancient owners, are the lucky castellans of this dreamy place. Castello Monaci is a fortified structure dating back to the 16th century, and has been restored several times. All around are vineyards as far as the eye can see, some 210 hectares, now cared for by Gruppo Italiano Vini, which also handles wine production and marketing.
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Coppi Casa Vinicola
Puglia Primitivo Bio Cantonovo 2019
95/100 - € 15,00
100% Primitivo. Stainless steel for 6 months. Very rich purple color. Bursting aromas of wild cherries, spices and eucalyptus. Intense and enveloping taste, neat tannins. Very typical finish. Great version.
Vespa Vignaioli per Passione
Salento Primitivo Il Bruno dei Vespa 2020
90/100 - € 12,00
100% Primitivo grapes. Matures 4 months in barriques. Dark ruby red color. Clear aromas of spices, underbrush, eucalyptus and leather. Rich taste, intense and elegant with neat tannins and right acidity. Delicious finish and great drinkability.
Felline
Salento Rosso Alberello 2020
91/100 - € 8,00
Equal blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro grapes. Stainless steel only. Very intense ruby red color. Clean and very neat aromas of black plums, morello cherries, red roses and rhubarb. Nice fruitiness in the mouth, good structure, dynamic, enveloping and great drinkability.
Castello Monaci
Salice Salentino Riserva Aiace 2018
92/100 - € 15,00
Blend of 75% Negroamaro and 25% Malvasia Nera grapes. Matures 3 years in various size barrels. Intense and concentrated ruby red color. Typical fruity aromas of dark cherries and black cherries, then hints of aromatic herbs and sweet spices. Powerful and warm taste, youthful and slightly evident tannins.
