In Apulia between Nero di Troia and Aglianico

The relatively recent success of Apulian wines is due to their ability to offer broad, full-bodied, powerful wines that can satisfy even discerning palates. We are all used to thinking of the Primitivo and Negroamaro grape varieties as the kings of Puglia, but we should not forget that there are two others equally important: Nero di Troia and Aglianico. 

 

The origins of Nero di Troia, like those of many indigenous varieties, are obscure. One theory holds that it came from Asia Minor and was brought to Italy by the Greeks. What is known is that the variety seems to thrive only in Puglia, particularly in the north of the region, where the town of Troia is located, and it may be this town that gave the variety its name. Currently, its greatest spread is along the Apulian coastal area of the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani and in the northern part of the province of Bari.

 

Torrevento's vineyards are just below the Castel del Monte, and the silhouette of the mysterious Frederician fortress dominates the entire surrounding scene. Francesco Liantonio and his partners must feel a responsibility to represent, perhaps more than others because of the winery's location, precisely that magical territory and the Nero di Troia grape variety that is its marker in terms of viticulture. 

 

Aglianico was also introduced by the ancient Greeks but in Campania, and from there it spread to Basilicata and Puglia. Everyone knows Taurasi in Irpinia or Aglianico del Vulture, which are considered the highest expressions of this grape variety, but interesting expressions can be found in Puglia as well, and as the technical skills of the producers grow, further improvements will be seen. 

 

In Massafra, north of Taranto, Peppino Montanaro, together with his children Filippo, Ilaria and Donato and with the collaboration of his son-in-law Giuseppe Sportelli, has restored the splendid Amastuola farm to its former glory. Wine has been made here for at least four centuries, and the structure of the Masseria, recovered with particularly careful restoration work, is a splendid wine resort. Alongside Primitivo, for which the winery provides several versions, we also find Aglianico, alone or in blends, red or rosé, with excellent results.