Latium reds beyond the autochthonous

by Editorial Staff 06/01/21
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Vigneto Val di Comino

We propose two little known reds, one from Doc Atina and the other from the very recent Doc Roma: two different ways of interpreting the territory of Latium.

The region of Latium, from the point of view of red wines, until not many years ago focused its production mainly on sangiovese, cesanese and montepulciano, with concessions to nero buono and merlot (mainly brought by settlers from Veneto at the beginning of the last century). Since some years international varieties have been introduced: from cabernet (both sauvignon and franc) to grenache and syrah (the latter mainly in the Viterbo area).

The two wines we are presenting today are sons of this culture. The first one is produced in the frusinate area, precisely in Valle di Comino (south-eastern area of Latium), and it is an Atina Doc, a denomination which exalts the blend of international grapes both in the Rosso and in the Riserva. It would be wrong to think, however, that in this case we are dealing with modern attempts to bend a territory to foreign tastes: in the nineteenth century Pasquale Visocchi, a distinguished agronomist from Atina, introduced many French varieties, both white and red berried, which deeply transformed the ampelographic base of the area. 

The second wine, instead, is labeled as Roma Doc, a recent appellation which has been accused by many to be a pure marketing lever to exploit the name of the Capital City. It could be true, if it were not for the fact that in the area around Rome the disciplinary (the ones of Castelli Romani) does not provide for red wines produced with international grapes. Rather than distorting historical denominations, they preferred to entrust this task to a new DOC.
 
But let's talk about our two wines. The first one, as said, is produced in the heart of Val Comino. Cominium is a family business and the two brothers Armando and Maria Pinto lead with passion this young reality of surprising quality. They are among the advocates of the recovery of the native vine maturano, enrolled in the National Register of Vine Varieties in 2010. Assisted by the expert hand of enologist Roberto Mazzer, the Pinto family in a short time has found its place among the wine excellences of the region. 
 
Capizucchi is a young winery, born in what was an ancient seventeenth century agricultural estate. It is located just in front of the Sanctuary of Divine Love, on Via Ardeatina, and it is one of the rare vineyards located in the city of Rome. The young Dario Diana is in charge of it, with the collaboration of a very experienced enologist, Lorenzo Costantini. For now the production is minimal, but it will sensibly increase with the coming into production of other vineyards in the next years.

Atina Satur 2018 Cominium  

91 j € 12,00 

Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. Matures 14 months in big barrels. Ruby red color. Aromas of fresh fruits, black currant and flowers. Good rich body but agile and dynamic, juicy, long and pleasant freshness.

Roma Rosso Mater Divini Amoris 2017 Capizucchi

91 j € 12,00 

Blend of 65% Montepulciano and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Matures at least 6 months in third passage barriques. Dark ruby red color. Aromas of eucalyptus and spices, ripe red fruits, wildcherries and underbrush. Agile and smooth taste, nicely blended tannins and juicy and spicy finish.

 

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