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The Canalicchi wines of Montalcino, a balanced cru
We have already written about other Montalcino crus and here will focus on the area of Canalicchi, a cru that has historically been recognized for the great balance in its wines between the finesse of the tannins and the acidity.
We again look at the crus of Montalcino after writing about Montosoli and San Polo, the latter the more recent of the two. The area of Canalicchi is located in the northern part of the appellation and is considered an “historic” cru that has always stood out for the balance the wines it produces have. It is situated along the road that leads to Montalcino from Buonconvento and the cru begins just before the Lambardi estate. For some, the cru then ends a little before the magmatic “lens” of the La Gerla estate, which also represents the zone’s western border. For me, on the other hand, this zone is a significant part of the cru. On the western side, the border of the Canalicchi cru is defined by the subtle line on the hill where the clay soil once again dominates over the sandy one that distinguishes Canalicchi wines.
In general, the best areas of the cru are those more than 300 above sea level. The reason for this is simple: at that altitude the clay component of the soil is significantly diminished which benefits the quality of the tannins and increases the acidity. The southern border of the cru marked on the road by a double curve beyond which is the Podere dei Cottimelli, which has a different soil composition.
As we said earlier, the Lambardi estate is important to pinpoint the start of the cru. In fact, in their northernmost vineyard, and where it is the lowest, we find a clear separation between the two parts of the vineyard, a separation that is so distinct that it is evident in all seasons for the way the vines develop, the color of the leaves and the color of the soil, which is distinctly darker to the north. From the upper part they produce Brunello while from the lower they make Rosso d Montalcino.
Starting in 2016, the Capanna estate began to produce a new Brunello di Montalcino from a Canalicchi vineyard: Nicco. When compared to Brunello Riserva 2016, the particular characteristics between Canalicchi and neighboring zones is immediately evident, even when the winery styles are the same. The beauty of Canalicchi wines is the balance between the finesse of the tannins and the acidity, while the bouquet is dominated by floral scents and those of medicinal herbs. The wines are elegant and balanced with a tendency to be fresh.
The estates tend to use grapes from their own vineyards but it is enough to compare a Brunello La Casaccia from the Canalicchio di Sopra estate with the recent Rosildo from the Franco Pacenti estate (ex-Canalicchio) to comprehend how singular the area is.
The upper and southern areas of Canalicchi, which host the cru’s magmatic vein, have a very interesting trait. The Riserva degli Angeli from the La Gerla estate, made with grapes from the highest area of the vineyard, has tannins that are slightly more distinct and a greater salinity than the others, while the acidity is lower.
The estate considered a reference point for the area is Canalicchio di Sopra, belonging to the Ripaccioli siblings, which in recent years has ranked among the “top ten” Montalcino producers. Their La Casaccia wine is one of the absolute best in the entire appellation.
With this overview we end our review of the subzones in the northern district of Montalcino. We will return later to this area to look at a new cru that hosts only two, very particular estates that are producing some incredible results.
The following reviews are of the wines mentioned in this article.
Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia 2017 Canalicchio di Sopra
97/100 - € 160
Made from Brunello grapes and matured in 30hl barrels for at least 24 months. A classic, ruby color. A clear and intense aroma of ripe black cherry and blackberry, with a smoky hint that ushers in notes of medicinal herbs that provide freshness. A thick and progressive mouthfeel that is nervous with its youthful tannins which are nevertheless perfectly integrated. The finish is excellent thanks to its persistence and moderation.
Brunello di Montalcino Nicco 2016 Capanna
97/100 - € 120
Made from Brunello grapes and matured in barrels of various sizes for at least 30 months. An intense and compact ruby color. The intriguing bouquet has notes of red fruit, marasca cherry and blackberry followed by lovely ones of spice, both yellow and dark, with a hint of blood orange. The mouthfeel is thick, almost muscular but with very polished tannins and a nice freshness. The progression is excellent, wrapping and vertical with a fruit aftertaste that gives great class to the finish.
Brunello di Montalcino Rosildo 2016 Franco Pacenti Canalicchio
95/100 - € 112
Made from a Brunello selection, matured in 10hl barrels for three months. A Ruby color that leans towards garnet. The intense aroma has notes of marasca cherry, fresh spice and yellow peach. The elegant and compact mouthfeel has settled tannins and a nice freshness while the elegance and drinkability allow the progression to be juicy without being excessive. The finish is excellent.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gli Angeli 2016 La Gerla
93/100 - € 80
Made with Brunello grapes from the Gli Angeli vineyard. Matured for some four years in 50hl barrels. A ruby color that leans towards garnet. The bouquet has fresh notes of underbrush, medicinal herbs and yellow spice with fruity hints. The elegant mouthfeel is organized with nicely formed and youthful tannins, a versatile progression and a saline and persistent finish.
Brunello di Montalcino 2017 Lambardi
91/100 - € 45
Made from Brunello grapes and matured for 30 months in classic barrels. A typical ruby color. A clean aroma that is not explosive and has sensations of fruit and classical notes of tobacco and underbrush. The mouthfeel is nervous yet balanced with an intriguing freshness and a flavorful and nervous finish. A young wine that needs to age.
