Italiano
Out and about in Calabria
An itinerary to discover Calabrian wines that are so old yet so unknown. The new generation believes in this land and are working hard to make it known despite the problems involved.
Calabria’s wine history is a long one and yet for many years the wines have remained relatively unknown, waiting to be rediscovered. There is a new generation in Calabria today that wants the region’s wines and the native grapes used to make then to be given the recognition they deserve. This is perhaps what was needed, fresh blood and people willing to work meticulously and with dedication to bring out in their wines the charm and traditions of this land. To discover them one needs to travel high and low throughout the region seeking out both the small and large estates. I was able to do this thanks to a press tour organized by Cronache di Gusto. What stood out for me was the common vision and determination of the new generation working hard to make the region’s wines known despite all the problems this inherent in a place like southern Italy.
The tour began in the province of Cosenza and proceeded through the Sila mountains and then to the Ionic coast and Cirò and ended in Lamezia. There were many realities to discover and in each one we were welcomed by people who were genuinely interested in us tasting their wines and getting to know their land. The tour was wonderful but also tiring and included riding on the back of a tractor through the vineyards of the Serracavallo estate followed by dogs with names like Syrah, Merlot and Barrique; riding in the back of a truck at the Librandi estate to visit the many vineyards there; and walking up hills covered with vineyards under a midday sun to admire the grapes and the view of the Ippolito estate.
The first stop on the tour was Le Moire, a very small estate that is almost impossible to find because it isn’t even on the map. It is an organic winery created thanks to the obstinacy of Paolo Chirillo, who was a doctor by profession but after spending years in Piedmont decided to return to where he was born and to embark on this adventure together with his wife and their two children, who all welcomed us with simplicity and enthusiasm.
Next was Serracavallo in Bisignano, in the province of Cosenza, in the Valle dei Crati. Here Demetrio Stancati took us on a tractor tour of his vineyards followed by his beautiful dogs. An aperitif was served as we looked over the wonderful landscape of this magical place and relaxed. The hospitality was fantastic with dinner composed of endless servings of foods that allowed you to discover and explore, using a fork and knife, this territory. The estate has 27 hectares of vineyards including one in the Sila mountains that produces a traditional method bubbly using Riesling and Chardonnay grapes. They produce 80,000 bottles a year and much using the native varietals Gaglioppo and Magliocco. The first, Stancati told us, is stingier and has trouble ripening and needs to be pampered in the vineyard. The second, on the other hand, is its generous and overflowing brother that is rich in fruit and tannins.
Our third stop was Igreco, a major estate that produces 500,000 bottles a year as well as an equally important quantity of olive oil. Here we met Filomena Greco, a strong and impressive woman who is the mayor of the small town of Cariati and an executive in the Igreco Group, which at the time was in the running to acquire then ex-national airline Alitalia.
The last two stops were in the area of Cirò, the first was Librandi and the second the estate of Vincenzo Ippolito. These were two different but equally interesting estates.
Librandi is a leading estate in the area and is located in Cirò Marina. It has 232 hectares of vineyards and produces 2.5 million bottles a year. It has been run by the same family for four generations and the current one is that of Raffaele and Paolo. They welcomed us to their winery and told us of their estate’s philosophy and long history. This new generation has its eyes on the future with the goal of consolidating production and obtaining recognition for this land’s wines that have much to offer.
The estate of Vincenzo Ippolito is also in Cirò and with him we climbed up a hill covered with his vineyards discussing the reality of Calabria today and the difficulties caused by the existence of the ‘ndrangheta crime syndicate that stifles progress and creates many problems for winemakers. But he remains enthusiastic and determined despite this and fully intends to follow his own path, one composed of excellent wines with an exceptional quality/price ratio.
The following are reviews of some of the wines we tasted even if my advice is to go there yourself and wander about the region they was we did and discover all the wonders it has to offer.
